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Washington, Idaho, Montana: A ride to Remember! |
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Wednesday, 01 March 2000 |
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Let's say you live in the eastern side of Washington or are looking for a good excuse to go there. Make sure your bike is completely road ready, you have all the goodies that you feel will be necessary (remember - don't overpack) and make your way to Clarkston in the southeast corner of the state. Once you're there if you're looking for a campsite for the night watch for the Chief Timothy Camp grounds just about four miles west of Clarkston. This is a unique, inexpensive place to set up if you don't mind sharing the area with all the ducks and geese. If you wish to hire a motel room, Clarkston offers many, as does Lewiston. Both cities being neighbors makes it easy to find board and room. The next morning (early, preferably) set out to enter Lewiston and pick up Hwy 12. This will lead you into some of the historically rich areas of the Northwest. As you travel the upcoming loop, you will probably be making many stops for photos and journal writings because it is somewhat the same route that Lewis and Clark followed on their trek westward.
Entering Highway 12 at Lewiston, you'll be following the Clear Water River for quite a while. Enjoy this, as it is unique and offers a lot of things to make note of. Be sure to watch for the signs to the Nez Perce National Historical Park if you are keeping any kind of log, On this trip a log, both written and photographic, will be a reward for you and generations to come. Travelling on Highway 12 is exciting, and beautiful. As you follow the Clear Water River take note of all the rafters and kayaks that partake of the rapid, violent waters. It's hard not to stop for a quick watch to see if they are going to make it through the rapids or not. The suspense is wonderful. As you near Ahsahka watch carefully for the marker directing you to the Canoe Camp. This is where Lewis and Clark camped for about two weeks an autumn 1805. Logs were hollowed out to make canoes for the final leg of the trip to the Pacific Ocean, leaving their horses with the friendly Natives. Near Kamiah is The Long Camp, which Lewis and Clark expedition camped for four weeks in the spring of 1806, awaiting the deep snows to melt off the high ridges of Lolo Trail. This gave them time to establish good relations with the natives. As you pass Kamiah and Penny Cliffs you will now be following the Middle Fork of the Clearwater River and a stop at Three Devils Picnic Area may or may not be on the agenda. Passing the Wild Goose Camp ground, you are now paralleling the Lochsa River. Herein, the scenery continually changes as you change altitude and habitat. Soon you will be arriving at Lochsa Lodge. The road (to the right) can easily be missed but make an effort to see it if you want one of the finest, and biggest, hamburgers you've ever experienced in your life. At Lochsa Lodge you'll fine souvenirs, good food and a bar to break the ride's momentum for a short time. This is also the Lochs Historical Ranger Station. A brief step into our recent past (1920's and 30's) representative of era When Forest Service buildings was not accessible by road. A nice display of early-day craftsmanship, tools and furnishings. First opened to the public in 1976. Continuing back on Highway 12 a Right turn heads you toward Lolo Pass and the town of Lolo. At the crest of Lolo Pass you'll see the marker for the Lolo Trail and begin the decent headed to Missoula, Montana. At Lolo turn Right (south) and follow Highway 93 through the towns of McClain, Carlton, Florence, Victor, Woodside and eventually to Hamilton. The travel here is flat and fast but worth taking note of. Please be aware of all the historical stops, markers and pull-offs that are along this route. They are very numerous. Lots of film is almost a demand on this trip. Once at Hamilton a gas up is probably on the list of needs. The next town south of Hamilton is Darby. Continuing south on Highway 93 will ascend the Bitterroot Mountains and lead eventually to the top of Lost Trail Pass re-entering Idaho. Here is the annual site of one of the most insane motorcycle activities around. The objective of the "game" is to start across the open area of the pass pull off (about the size of a large parking lot), build as much speed you're comfy with and coast, yes, I said coast, to the bottom of the pass. This doesn't seem like a big deal until you drive it and find out it is near a maze of twists, turns, switchbacks and insane corners. The objective at the bottom is to see how far you can coast after you've encountered the most hair-raising pass and still make it in one piece and upright. This insanity is put on by a group of riders whose name escapes me at this time but a bit of minor investigation will expose these hardy riders. Our continuing ride out of the pass will eventually bring you to Salmon, Idaho. At Salmon a Hotel/Motel room shouldn't be too difficult to find for a rest and preparation for the next leg of our trip. Campgrounds abound all along the route, so a little investigation of your trip map will put you right in touch with the right type of campsite you're looking for. Once you're refreshed, rested, and refueled continue south on Highway 93 roaming through wonderful countryside and following the Salmon River until you reach Challis. Here, you'll meet hardy folks that welcome you to a small town of nice people, lots of history (mining) at an altitude at which there are only about 12 nights per year that it doesn't freeze. This makes it a bit strange to watch a Forth of July fireworks display during a snowfall, as my older brother once quoted. Just south of Challis; turn right, at the power station onto Highway 75/26 for a west by south trek through a portion of the Saw Tooth Mountains and Saw Tooth Wilderness that the beauty is breathtaking. At Stanley, Idaho turn onto to Highway 21 (SR 25) and follow to Lowman. At Lowman, Highway 21 will continue south but you'll want to continue westward to Banks. When my brothers and I followed this portion of the road it was not much better than a glorified "cow path" so that when we arrived at Banks it looked as though we'd ridden several miles of moto-cross with all the mud, etc, but now it's all improved macadam and a wonderful ride. Turning north on Highway 55 parallels the North Fork of the Fayette River for a while as you climb higher to a high altitude plateau near Alpha. Just past there at Cascade you'll follow Cascade Reservoir for several miles. This, again, is one of our man-made assets for electricity, irrigation and lots of recreation. Continuing on Highway 55 to just past McCall, you might want to take a brief moment to investigate Packer John's Cabin. This replica cabin (originally built in1863 by John Welch) is to salute "Packer John" who hauled supplies from Lewiston to Idaho City during the major Boise Basin Gold Rush and was often used as a territorial political convention place. Remember, this is just one of the multitude of historical markers and monuments that are on this route. Just past Meadows on Highway 55 you'll see the turn off (right and north) to Highway 95. A short ride north we find ourselves again parallels another river. This time it is the Little Salmon River. Roaring with rage, beauty and fun for some this "little" river must be respected. A stop at Pinehurst for a bite to eat, for the Pinehurst Roadside serves up some of the finest "grub" you'll encounter on the trip even though it doesn't look like much of a place to eat. Rested and full continue north on Highway 95 to Riggins. Here is found a hub of tourism, entertainment, fishing, jet boat and river rafting amongst all the color and noise. Continuing through Riggins on Highway 95, keep in mind that up until 1934 this was a route penetrable only by mule pack train or wagons. Completely rough and impassible but now it's wonderful. Stop at the summit at White Bird for an overlook and take yet another photo. This is near the site of another Historical Register. The road you've just traveled was renewed and completed only in 1975. Pretty awesome if you stop and ponder the moment. Continuing on Highway 95 will bring you to Grangeville. This is a great "jump-off" point at which you can turn onto Highway 13 and return to Lewiston or stay on Highway 95 and do the same, but, Highway 13 is much more interesting. Once back at Lewiston crosses back over to Clarkston and turn south onto Highway 129. Here you'll be in for a real treat although it comes in to you after a few boring miles, about 15 or so miles. Highway 129 will lead you into Asotin, Oregon and continuing south will bring you to some of the most fun twisting, writhing, exciting road to further add to your "loop". Go south on Highway 129 as far as you dare but the fun sort of stops just south of Applegate Canyon. This is a good excuse to return north via the same route or turn west on the "Lost Prairie Road" that will eventually return you to Highway 129 just a bit south of Asotin. Again I emphasize that you take this little "jaunt" wherein missing it you will miss some excitement you've not found elsewhere. Once you've returned to Clarkston, you have completed (in all) about a 1500 trip encompassing beautiful, history filled territories in which many friendly folk met, pictures taken and memories filed will be a true treasure for the rest of your life. With that I leave you hopefully preparing your machines and making plans. This is a long loop, so have fun, plan well, enjoy, Ride Safe and Ride Long. Tom Janson. |
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Last Updated ( Friday, 08 July 2005 )
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