While sometimes a dealer will have a duplex chain w/ master link for sale, often they only have the "endless" version w/o. Here is how to masterlink that endless chain; a method which can often be cheaper and more effective than a factory masterlink version. First read "Replacing a Timing Chain by Matt Parkhouse to get familiar with the process and acquire the necessary parts, save one...

I replaced the timing chain on my '78 R80/7 (duplex // double row chain) at a Missouri Tech Day. I was getting ready to pull the gears to remove and install an endless chain when This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it noted that he had located the following master link substitute.

All BMW's chains are made by Iwis Ketten (Ketten is German for chain), sometimes called JWis. Randy located a part number for JUST THE MASTERLINK! Randy found that Mercedes/Benz Part Number: 000.997.05.98 for a : 5L M/B V-8 engine is a direct swap for a link in a BMW chain, same manufacturer in fact!

I called my local M/B dealer and was quoted $5 for the part. I did a little more research and found that Iwis Ketten list their USA importer as USA Atlantic Im- & Export Corp. Atlantic referred me to SSF (800) 632-2743 in San Francisco (deals with dealers only but you 'might' be able to purchase via certified check for $1.71ea) who gave me a local dealer in Kansas City, Star Motors. Star said they were $3.71ea. I order four for me and friends. When I picked them up the next day, the price was dropped to $2.50ea. The bag read:

JWis
iwis ketten
Steckglied Connecting Link
D67 S 3/8 x 7/32 6379

The total cost for my chain and link was about $30. Now all you have to do is Dremel the chain's rivet heads off after covering the chain area with a cloth to keep the grinded bits off, pry off and apart old chain after aligning the crank/cam, grind out a link of the new chain (likewise cloth wrapped) and install the new chain!!!

PLUS, the M/B master link uses TWO E-style circlips (cc) instead of just ONE long U-clip (U) like you see in the books to clip onto the link's two pins; a better approach IMHO.

Randy also recommended that you magnetize the link parts so that if they fall, they will stick to the chain and not fall into the engine. Fearing metal fuzz might accumulate, I was just reall careful and installed the link on the lowside so if anything fell, it just land on the bike lift platform.

Hope this saves you some grief. I went ahead and picked up an extra link to have with for whoever needs one at the next Tech Day. :o)

Now is also a convenient time to service the mechanical advance unit (ATU) on your Airhead. As posted to the Airlist...

" ...There are two different greases used to lube the advance unit and points. Bosch makes them, Ft1v4 is a sticky yellow grease for lubing the rubbing block of the points against the cam lobes. Ft1v26 is a thin blue grease, that is used at all the moving parts of the advance unit and where the advance unit slides over the camshaft. Comes in 50 gram tubes. ... "
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Wrench safe and ride smart
Joe "Cuda" ABC #3335