OK, listen up! The picture above shows how I install an oil filter in my R100GS. It's worked that way for the last 35,000 miles, doesn't leak, the oil pressure light never comes on when the engine's running, and uses almost all the parts that come in the filter change kit. Having said that, though, I'm told by reputable sources that other GS bikes, and other BMWs that use oil coolers, don't use the same parts in the same order. The most controversial aspect of the filter change is whether or not you're going to use the paper gasket that fits between the oil filter door and the engine case. Some folks say to never use the gasket, as it moves the oil filter door away from the end of the oil canister, decreasing compression of the white "O" ring, possibly allowing high pressure oil to leak back into annulus between the canister and the engine case, returning to the sump without first lubricating the motor (the canister is what makes the shelf around the outside of the oil filter, about 3 mm from the end of the oil filter opening). Obviously, this could lead to engine failure, and I've communicated with one person that has had this happen. My own take on this, for my own GS, the dimensions of which may differ considerably from yours, is to use the steel shim and the paper gasket, or the steel shim and no gasket, but under no circumstances will I use the paper gasket without the steel shim. For a detailed discussion of this issue, see this web page by Snowbum. My GS came to me from the original owner with the paper gasket and steel shim in place. My understanding is that the bike was always serviced by a BMW dealer. Granted, this is second hand information, but if true, it means that BMW dealers are using the paper gasket when they replace oil filters. I've also communicated with Jhed Webster, BMWNA's west coast warranty arbitrator, who said the "official" take is to use the steel shim and the paper gasket. So your mileage may vary! The best recommendation I can make is to keep track of how your old filter came out, and put the new parts back in using the same strategy.

For this '93 R100GS, here's how it goes: There's a black square section "O" ring attached to one end of the filter. That end goes in first when you install the filter. Next goes the steel ring, which sets on the little shelf created by the end of the oil canister inside the engine case. On top of that goes the white "O" ring, the one that is round in cross section. Now put the black "O" ring, the one with the rectangular cross section, into the groove in the underside of the oil filter door. That's the thing with the two pipes that go to the oil cooler. A drop or two of oil helps hold this "O" ring in place.

Next (if you choose to use it, as I sometimes do) goes the paper gasket on the outside of the engine case. Use a drop or two of oil to hold it in place. Push the oil filter door down onto the oil filter, and you should feel some resistance before it bottoms out on the engine case. That means the "O" rings are being compressed, and that's a good thing. Start the three screws into the oil filter door by hand, then use an allen wrench to draw them up a little at a time, working from one to the next until the door is flat against the case. Give each one a final twist up to the proper torque (go 'till they strip, then back off half a turn, er, no, just kidding!).

Don't forget to fill the bike with oil!