The image above shows the tankbag with the usually present map removed. Most of the components pictured are related to the Valentine 1 radar detector that lives in the tankbag, but you can see the Power Distribution Box and, just below that, the Switch Box that manage 12 volt power in the bag. An electrical connector (a commonly available trailer connector) powers the Switch Box through a two wire lead that runs to the saddle/fuel tank junction. Another lead carrying 12 volts, preferably switched with the ignition, meets this lead at the saddle/fuel tank junction at the rear of the tankbag.

The Switch Box contains three toggle switches that illuminate when they are energized. One routes power to a standard BMW accessory outlet mounted on the underside of the Switch Box that powers an electric jacket. The other two control power for a map illuminator and radar detector. From the Switch Box, a four conductor lead enters the tankbag through a small hole at bottom center. I made the hole with an awl to avoid cutting any fibers in the bag, and to get a tighter seal on the wires where they entered the bag. The lead has four pin trailer type connectors that mates to the Switch Box on one end, and the Power Distribution Box inside the tankbag on the other. The connectors allow either box to be removed for servicing or when the tankbag is washed. The wires in the lead are: ground, two switched leads from the Switch Box, and a spare lead that is hot (12V) all the time.

The Power Distribution Box has three phono type jacks along one side that distribute 12 volts to the radar detector, map illuminator, and hopefully one day, to an MP3 player. The two jacks are wired with the 12 volt positive lead to the center connector. Power is routed through ninety degree phono connectors to the radar detector and map illuminator (available from Aerostich).

To help simplify wiring I used a common ground for all components, and individual wires for the switched 12 volt power between the switch box and the Power Distribution Box phono plugs. The ground lead connects to all three grounds of the phono jacks in the Power Distribution Box, runs through the two 4 pin trailer connectors, through the Switch Box, and back to the ground pin of the 2 pin trailer connector at the rear of the tankbag. The 12 volt positive lead from the two pin trailer connector attaches to one side of all three switches, then individual leads head off to their respective components from the switched terminal.

The Valentine 1* radar detector proved to be somewhat clumsy to wire, requiring several auxiliary components to adapt it to motorcycle use. A hard wire adapter provides the transition from cut-and-tape wires (never solder automotive or motorcycle connections because vibration induced fatigue can cause the wire to break) to the V1 telephone type connectors. From there leads go to a remote audio adapter that provides connectors for a piezoelectric speaker in the rider's helmet, and to a remote display that allows viewing the V1's analysis of radar signal strength, direction, number, and type. The V1 itself is powered from yet another lead running from the remote audio adapter. After getting all this working with hardware store phone cords it was very apparent that shorter leads were needed. The local Home Depot provided a $40 crimp tool and the necessary RJ-11 connectors. The tool also crimps RJ-45 connectors, commonly used on CAT-5 ethernet cables, which helped justify its purchase (as if a tool purchase ever needed justification ;) One black phone cord furnished all the lead material needed for the entire installation, and the results are neat and uncluttered. The only trick was making sure that the order of the leads was switched from one end of the cable to the other, as shown in the photo.

The plastic boxes and phono connectors are off-the-shelf items at Radio Shack. The local car parts store had the switches and trailer connectors. To date the system has about 5000 miles of both on and off road use, through scorching heat and freezing rain and snow, and so far hasn't skipped a beat. It's easily moved between motorcycles, unobtrusive, and easily expanded to accommodate additional accessories. The only problem I've had is the constant stream of questions about those red toggle switches on the outside of the tankbag. I usually reply that the left one is for the map light, and the right for the radar detector. Folks always ask what the middle one is for, and I say "Don't touch that one, it's for the ejection seat!"

Pages detailing the addition of music and GPS capabilities to the tank bag are availble here and here.

*Some might wonder how the laser detector in the V1 works from inside the tankbag. It doesn't. In fact, I've disabled the laser detector in the V1 via the programming option, mainly because the noisy electrics of the R100GS cause the laser to signal a false warning as RPMs reach 4000 or so. But the very nature of laser speed detection severely undermines the effectiveness of countermeasures: Laser is instant on, providing no reaction time. And unlike instant on radar, there's no scatter that let's you benefit from the guy in front of you getting lasered. In my book, all laser detectors do is let you know when you shoud pull over and get your ticket. Without one, at least I can give the cop a fair chase.