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Topic-icon 1982 R65 Timing Issue

  • dretek
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3 months 1 week ago #5055 by dretek
Replied by dretek on topic 1982 R65 Timing Issue
Thank you so much for the response.

At work today I took some resistance readings using a voltmeter on the Dyna Coil:
Primary - 1.8 Ohms
Spark Plug Insert to Spark Plug Insert - 13.41 kOhms
Primary to Spark Plug Insert - No Reading

So I'm guessing the Primary to Spark Plug Insert (which I believe is Secondary?) read 0 because there is a short - indicating the ignition coil is at fault.

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2 months 4 weeks ago #5131 by dretek
Replied by dretek on topic 1982 R65 Timing Issue
UPDATE:

Finally, after 3 months of tunnel vision focus on the Japanese carbs on the German bike, the problem turned out to be a faulty ignition coil.

The bike fires up immediately and runs at a high idle of 1250 rpm.

The next step is to bring the idle down. I have a Uni-syn which measure the airflow pressure coming in. I also had the idea of just intuitively dialing the idle/air mixture screw til it sounds nice and idles @ 1025.

OR should I go straight for the shorting method described in http://www.vintagebikebuilder.com/mikuni-tuning-and-jetting-guide.html (towards the bottom there is a paragraph called Dual Cylinder).

On another note: I ran my finger through the Air Filter Lower Box Housing - and it had lots of soot. Is this worth replacing/cleaning?

Summer is losing days and I am eager to ride! Looking at helmets already!

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2 months 4 weeks ago - 2 months 4 weeks ago #5132 by Wobbly
Replied by Wobbly on topic 1982 R65 Timing Issue
I'd say adjustment while running normally is always preferable over having one cylinder drag the other dead cylinder along. How would you compare the two, especially knowing that when the other cylinder "goes live" the idle speed is going to increase ? Consider that afterwards, when you go to set the idle speed down, you've just screwed up all your tedious adjustments. Also consider you run the risk of burning up another coil, too.

Set the pilot screws at 1-1/2 turns, set the idle with the engine HOT for smooth to the ear idle around 1000 RPM, then use the Uni-Sync to adjust the slides (via cable adjustment) for even vacuum at around 2500 RPM. Boom, you're done.

dretek wrote: On another note: I ran my finger through the Air Filter Lower Box Housing - and it had lots of soot. Is this worth replacing/cleaning?

Please name one other part of an engine that performs better when dirty. And there's your answer. :P

Don't hide 'em, Ride 'em !!
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Last edit: 2 months 4 weeks ago by Wobbly.

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