The Airheads Beemer Club is a non-profit club reclaiming the 'Legendary Motorcycles of Germany'

Topic-icon New Airhead Owner - Needs Help! (Lots of Images)

  • dretek
  • dretek's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • R100 Level
  • R100 Level
More
1 week 2 days ago - 1 week 2 days ago #4817 by dretek
Wobbly I hear ya and thank ya - your response was abundantly clear! I am going to start with valve clearances and timing. I was getting antsy and took the seller's description as truth, because there was mention of timing and clearances already done. But heck, why not do it again?

It also looks like my right exhaust nut is leaking. Is this worth getting the special tool and gasket and then replacing, or hold off until I get a running bike?

I only ask because in Clymer's and pre-carb tuning research, it recommends "intake and exhaust systems must be free of all leaks".

More questions on carb syncing - later.

Thank you guys so much. I get my license this weekend. The plan is to ride ASAP!

Also, isn't there a Catch-22, where your bike must idle to get timing right? But in order to carb sync, timing needs to be perfect. My guess is: I adjust my idle screws until I can idle the bike with CHOKE UP. In essence, have the bike idle by ANY means (without flooding the engine), and then set the timing correctly with a strobe light.

I have seen a portion on static timing which requires a special tool..
Last edit: 1 week 2 days ago by dretek.

Please Log in to join the conversation.

More
1 week 2 days ago #4818 by Wobbly

...because there was mention of timing and clearances already done. But heck, why not do it again?

When does it ever hurt to double check someone else's work ?

It also looks like my right exhaust nut is leaking.

You are correct. It's leaking raw fuel from leaving the "chokes" ON too long.

Is this worth getting the special tool and gasket ?

Only if you ride the bike and it still leaks exhaust gas. But first you actually need to RIDE the bike. :P Even then you need to weigh the price of the tool versus dropping by the local shop and tipping the mechanic $5 to tighten the nut for you. The "gasket" is only replaced if it's lost. It's a simple steel wedge that's used over and over.

Also, isn't there a Catch-22, where your bike must idle to get timing right?

Either you have not read the thread suggested in my very first post, or you have not retained the information from that thread. The answer to most of your questions is right here in these 2 threads.

All the best.

Don't hide 'em, Ride 'em !!
#15150

Please Log in to join the conversation.

  • dretek
  • dretek's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • R100 Level
  • R100 Level
More
2 days 4 hours ago - 1 day 13 hours ago #4839 by dretek
UPDATE:
Today I tested my luck and see if I can get the bike to idle. I turned the air and idle screw to default 1.5 turns and tried to fire it up 5-7 times. Nothing, so I left it alone. I did accidentally leave the spark plug cap off ONE time I hit the 'Start' button. I read this can be bad for the ignition.

Moved on to adjusting the Left Valve Clearances. Intake was good @ 0.004. Exhaust was tight and I loosened it to 0.008. My question is: why does the spark plug need to be removed? Does it need to be removed on both sides? I found the OT mark on the flywheel, however, after adjusting, I realized it wasn't DEAD center looking at it straight on. I also wasn't 100% sure I was feeling the right "grip" when moving those feeler gauges.

I moved onto the right side, and no matter how much I spun the rear wheel and aligned the OT, it never seemed like the rocker arms on the Right side were loose enough to have clearance. Either that, or they were way too tight. What am I looking for in terms of the relationship between the flywheel OT symbol, rear wheel spinning, and how the rocker arms are moving in and out?

I thought this would be much easier.

I attached photos of the spark plug, clearances, OT visibility.




Last edit: 1 day 13 hours ago by dretek.

Please Log in to join the conversation.

  • dretek
  • dretek's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • R100 Level
  • R100 Level
More
7 hours 30 minutes ago #4845 by dretek
It turns out I was hitting TDC for the Right side, there was no clearance! I'm glad I found out. That being said, I did stick a plastic pen in the combustion chamber and a tip of the plastic pen fell in there. I am going to attempt to get it out with a hemostat and another special tool.

Next step ignition timing. Hopefully, I can get the bike to idle! At what point do I need to use a fan for having my bike idle?

Lesson learned: do not stick plastic things in the machine!

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Moderators: 8166Wobbly
Time to create page: 1.146 seconds