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Topic-icon Exhaust Compression/Clamp Rings and Vale Cover Restoration Questions

  • mjmorrisva
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2 weeks 5 days ago #5169 by mjmorrisva
Friends,

I removed the lower fairing and exhaust system on the 82 R100RT in order to change the oil filter. Yes, I could have tried to do this with them on but since this was my first attempt to change it I wanted to see more and get it done right. As I understand, the consequences of poor installation are unfortunate to say the least. At any rate, when I removed the exhaust, I found the compression ring and clamp ring to look serviceable. According to several sources these two rings can be cleaned, inspected, and re-used. Question: Is that true or does practical experience on the forum suggest replacing them as standard practice? For the small cost does it make sense to buy new?

Separate question; my RT has black valve covers with unfinished fins (see pic). The cover's finish is in poor condition. What is the best way to paint and restore these particular covers?

Your thoughts please,
M

1982 R100RT

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2 weeks 5 days ago - 2 weeks 5 days ago #5170 by Wobbly

mjmorrisva wrote: I removed the lower fairing and exhaust system on the 82 R100RT in order to change the oil filter. At any rate, when I removed the exhaust, I found the compression ring and clamp ring to look serviceable. According to several sources these two rings can be cleaned, inspected, and re-used. Question: Is that true or does practical experience on the forum suggest replacing them as standard practice?


I have never replaced those parts, but simply reused everything each time. The "catch" is that: 1) you need to use the correct tool to loosen and re-tighten the finned exhaust nut, and 2) you MUST apply a VERY high temperature version of anti-seize compound to the threads if you expect to get the nut off next time. Harris says use only Copper Never-Seize, I use the nuclear grade good to 6000°F, I'm sure others have opinions on what works best. The point is you MUST use something, or metal-to-metal galling and heat seizure is eminent.

[As a side note, you'll also want to apply the same anti-seize compound to the spark plug threads each time before they are installed.]

The next issue is not so obvious. When installing ANY of the fairing parts you must use extreme care. 6mm bolts do all the fairing mounting and these thread into brass inserts in the plastic parts. If you over tighten the bolts, you'll pull the brass inserts right out of its hole. Sometimes when the insert pulls free it does so by breaking off chunks and pieces of the fairing that support the insert. If pull-out happens you'll need to stop, remove the plastic panel, and epoxy the insert back into the plastic. I recommend a thick, slow setting filler type, like JB Weld for the job. Especially if chunks break off the fairing. Good adhesive will require a 24 hour wait period while the epoxy cures.

The fairing is held in place quite rigidly by a minimum number of fasteners, but it needs every single one of them because they are all under some stress. Loosing one bolt places more stress on the remaining mounting points and they quickly break off too. An oil change is a good time to check all those fairing bolts for snugness.

Hope this helps.

Don't hide 'em, Ride 'em !!
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Last edit: 2 weeks 5 days ago by Wobbly.

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