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            <title>
									Airheads Beemer Club Forum - Recent Posts				            </title>
            <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/</link>
            <description>Airheads Beemer Club Discussion Board</description>
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            <lastBuildDate>Mon, 13 Apr 2026 01:28:03 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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                        <title>/2 Throttle Twist Grip Index Mark</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/wrenching/2-throttle-twist-grip-index-mark/#post-17111</link>
                        <pubDate>Sun, 12 Apr 2026 23:09:17 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[The throttle twist grip on my &#039;66 R69S does not have an index mark on the gear teeth to show where it needs to mate up with the cam that pulls the throttle cables.  Is there a standard place...]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The throttle twist grip on my '66 R69S does not have an index mark on the gear teeth to show where it needs to mate up with the cam that pulls the throttle cables.  Is there a standard place within the 10 gear teeth were the index mark should be?</p>]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>John Lindberg</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/wrenching/2-throttle-twist-grip-index-mark/#post-17111</guid>
                    </item>
				                    <item>
                        <title>RE: Compression question</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/my-airhead-needs-help/compression-question/#post-17110</link>
                        <pubDate>Sun, 12 Apr 2026 19:56:12 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[One other clue; the plug on the left cylinder is black and smells of fuel. The right plug looks perfect. I have verified that the valve clearance is right.]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p> One other clue; the plug on the left cylinder is black and smells of fuel. The right plug looks perfect. I have verified that the valve clearance is right. </p>]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>Blake Wester</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/my-airhead-needs-help/compression-question/#post-17110</guid>
                    </item>
				                    <item>
                        <title>Compression question</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/my-airhead-needs-help/compression-question/#post-17109</link>
                        <pubDate>Sun, 12 Apr 2026 17:47:33 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[Hello, 
Ive been having trouble syncing my carbs. The left cylinder pulls way more vacuum than the other, so the manometer won’t level at all. The carbs were just rebuilt by Bing. I did a c...]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello, </p>
<p>Ive been having trouble syncing my carbs. The left cylinder pulls way more vacuum than the other, so the manometer won’t level at all. The carbs were just rebuilt by Bing. I did a compression test and it was strange. I saw online to remove the carbs first before testing, so I did both:</p>
<p>with carbs on, no filter: L=65 R=120</p>
<p>without carbs on: L=130 R=125</p>
<p>what on earth is going on??</p>
<p>thanks!</p>]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>Blake Wester</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/my-airhead-needs-help/compression-question/#post-17109</guid>
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				                    <item>
                        <title>RE: Generator Lights Performing Opposite Of Expected</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/my-airhead-needs-help/generator-lights-performing-opposite-of-expected/#post-17108</link>
                        <pubDate>Wed, 08 Apr 2026 16:16:16 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[Thank you Wobbly. You always seem to be there offering your wisdom to us Airheads, as needed. We&#039;re lucky for that. 
I am still going to remove the old diode board and test according to the...]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thank you Wobbly. You always seem to be there offering your wisdom to us Airheads, as needed. We're lucky for that. </p>
<p>I am still going to remove the old diode board and test according to the <em>Classic Boxer Charging</em> instructions. However, I've also already ordered a replacement from EME. Sadly, I'm replacing the one I had recently replaced as part of a charging system upgrade. It's the one listed as Heavy Duty and I believe may be an Emerald Isle replacement part. When I originally replacing this part, the original rubber mounted standoffs were replaced with the solid metal variety. I will also take your advice and use some No-Ox-Id when reinstalling the posts and connectors. Hopefully this repair goes smoothly so I can get this bike on the road and enjoy some of the recent upgrades.  </p>
<p>I will be sure to provide an update as to how the repair went. </p>]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>J.T. Sutton</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/my-airhead-needs-help/generator-lights-performing-opposite-of-expected/#post-17108</guid>
                    </item>
				                    <item>
                        <title>RE: Generator Lights Performing Opposite Of Expected</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/my-airhead-needs-help/generator-lights-performing-opposite-of-expected/#post-17107</link>
                        <pubDate>Wed, 08 Apr 2026 12:20:31 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[&gt; You&#039;re correct. The signal for the dash indicator lamp comes from the voltage regulator.
&gt; When hooking up a battery with reversed polarity, the diodes in the rectifier would be the...]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&gt; You're correct. The signal for the dash indicator lamp comes from the voltage regulator.</p>
<p>&gt; When hooking up a battery with reversed polarity, the diodes in the rectifier would be the first to be damaged. There are 6 diodes in the Airhead rectifier, 2 for each of the 3 phases coming off the alternator. If any one of those 6 blew out, then you'd lose 1/3 of your charging current, which would make the dash indicator light come ON. </p>
<p>&gt; In the old days rectifiers were sometimes made of selenium, which was more bulky and more expensive, but blow out proof. The Airhead rectifier uses solid-state diodes which are far more efficient, but also more susceptible to damage. </p>
<p>&gt; For the repair.... Buy a good used rectifier board. Buy the <strong>solid metal</strong> rectifier standoffs offered by <span style="color: #0000ff"><em>Motorrad Elektrik</em></span>. And then install the new board AND standoffs after applying a coating of <span style="color: #0000ff"><em>No-Ox-Id</em></span> anti-oxidation compound to: 1) both ends of the standoffs (these standoffs provide the Negative "ground" termination for the rectifier board) <strong>AND</strong> 2) every male electrical terminal before plugging up the connecting wires. This work will require removing the Starter Cover and the Front Engine Cover. </p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Link to Standoffs: http://motoelekt.com/charging.htm</p>
<p>Link to No-Ox-Id: <a href="https://midwestmodelrr.com/san10222/?sku=SAN10222&amp;gad_source=1&amp;gad_campaignid=8987078875&amp;gbraid=0AAAAAC4l-H5TCp9X3X3vQfL3W0-fTSVx9&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw-dfOBhAjEiwAq0RwIx-tLTtneBroTJPanNUmFcuREH-142hFrlWLrpVJVALQK6o_v5cR1RoCAkYQAvD_BwE" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Here</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Hope this helps.</p>]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>Richard W</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/my-airhead-needs-help/generator-lights-performing-opposite-of-expected/#post-17107</guid>
                    </item>
				                    <item>
                        <title>Generator Lights Performing Opposite Of Expected</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/my-airhead-needs-help/generator-lights-performing-opposite-of-expected/#post-17106</link>
                        <pubDate>Tue, 07 Apr 2026 02:30:59 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[Over this past winter I spent a fair amount of time doing some upgrades to my &#039;77 R100/7. Mostly doing handling, braking and cosmetic modifications. However, once the bike was back together ...]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Over this past winter I spent a fair amount of time doing some upgrades to my '77 R100/7. Mostly doing handling, braking and cosmetic modifications. However, once the bike was back together and I started it for the first time, I've noticed an issue that wasn't there before. My generator light isn't behaving as it should. In fact, it seems to be doing nearly the opposite of what it should. At idle, the light goes off and once I'm on the throttle it comes on very brightly. Also, when I turn on the ignition, the generator light is also bright, as it should be.</p>
<p>My first thought was to pick up Rick Jones <em>Classic Boxer Charging </em>to see if it would lend some insight. In reading through his book, it seemed like my Voltage Regulator may have been the issue. But, I swapped out, what I believe to be a functional, used voltage regulator, and it did the same thing.</p>
<p>In full disclosure, I had one of the moments when putting the bike back together, that makes me feel a little less than bright. Fairly recently, I replaced the battery with a MotoBat. They seem highly regarded and I've been really pleased with it. However, these batteries have 4 connection points rather than 2. And I found out the hard way then the connections aren't symetrical.  Obviously, I wasn't paying close enough attention when reinstalling the battery and had it sitting in the cradle backwards. I attached the positive terminal first and then when attempting to hook up the negative terminal, I was treated to an impressive sparks show. It took me a minute to figure out what I had done. I then swapped the terminals, turned on the ignition switch and everything seemed to work as it should. </p>
<p>This past weekend is when I finally had the bike ready for its first spin. It started just fine and seems to run with no apparent issues, other than the generator light burning brightly as I motor down the road. I'm wondering if I have fried the diode board or maybe something else. Any sagely advice would be greatly appreciated. </p>
<p>Much appreciated. </p>
<p>Bombadil</p>]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>J.T. Sutton</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/my-airhead-needs-help/generator-lights-performing-opposite-of-expected/#post-17106</guid>
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                        <title>Third Tuesday at Kirk&#039;s Steakburgers in Campbell Revival</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/norcal/third-tuesday-at-kirks-steakburgers-in-campbell-revival/#post-17105</link>
                        <pubDate>Mon, 06 Apr 2026 18:00:44 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[4/21 5pm-7pm, Kirks Burgers meet up in Campbell!
Come on out to Kirk&#039;s Steakburgers, located at 2509 S Bascom Ave, Campbell, Ca 95008, on the third Tuesday, April 21st from 5-7 pm.I&#039;ll be a...]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<div style="text-align: center"><span style="text-decoration: underline"><strong>4/21 5pm-7pm, Kirks Burgers meet up in Campbell!</strong></span></div>
Come on out to Kirk's Steakburgers, located at 2509 S Bascom Ave, Campbell, Ca 95008, on the third Tuesday, April 21st from 5-7 pm.<br /><br />I'll be arriving early and attempting to get patio seating. Look for a Black 71' R60/5, will try to get a spot out front, as a beacon to all.<br /><br />In an attempt to revive some South Bay Airhead activity, let's get something started! Open to suggestions on better locations, days, times.<br /><br />If you use to run this event, please reach out to me, I'd love to talk to you and discuss. Not trying to step on toes, just need/want community.<br /><br />Questions, concerns, thoughts, strange cryptic foreboding prophecies? Throw them in this topic below, I'll do my best to stay on top of it.<br /><br />See you on the road! Or at Kirks, hopefully!<br /><br />Steffen<br />71' R60/5<br />]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>Steffen Guy</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/norcal/third-tuesday-at-kirks-steakburgers-in-campbell-revival/#post-17105</guid>
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				                    <item>
                        <title>RE: Voltage spikes on R100GS</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/my-airhead-needs-help/voltage-spikes-on-r100gs/#post-17104</link>
                        <pubDate>Tue, 31 Mar 2026 22:29:08 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[Thanks to all who looked at this issue or offered advice about lithium batteries.
Replacement regulator did not solve the voltage spikes at battery issue.  The new regulator may have reduce...]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks to all who looked at this issue or offered advice about lithium batteries.</p>
<p>Replacement regulator did not solve the voltage spikes at battery issue.  The new regulator may have reduced the spikes, but they did not stop entirely.  In a surprise to no one, it looks like the lithium-ion battery is a mismatch.</p>
<p>I put the stock lead battery back in, and voltage at terminals return to normal @2500rpm.  No spikes over 14V.  So, the lithium battery is going back on the shelf for another day.  </p>
<p>Still considering an OMEGA rotor upgrade in the future.  Would probably get the R/R designed to work with Li-Ion at that time.  </p>
<p>Enjoy the ride,</p>
<p>Big Bird</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>4dPerspective@gmail.com</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/my-airhead-needs-help/voltage-spikes-on-r100gs/#post-17104</guid>
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                        <title>Playing/grinding output shaft and 5 th gear.</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/parts-is-parts/playing-grinding-output-shaft-and-5-th-gear-2/#post-17103</link>
                        <pubDate>Tue, 31 Mar 2026 00:55:16 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[Hello, can anyone tell me if anyone else does this procedure?  CycleWorks.Net did it for a long time, but they aren’t responding to my emails and phone calls. I have a shaft and gear in need...]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello, can anyone tell me if anyone else does this procedure?  <em>CycleWorks.Net</em> did it for a long time, but they aren’t responding to my emails and phone calls. I have a shaft and gear in need of this.</p>
<p>Thanks, Matt Parkhouse hobomatt@aol.com</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span style="color: #993366"></span></p>]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>Matt Parkhouse</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/parts-is-parts/playing-grinding-output-shaft-and-5-th-gear-2/#post-17103</guid>
                    </item>
				                    <item>
                        <title>RE: Onboard Spares</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/parts-is-parts/onboard-spares/#post-17101</link>
                        <pubDate>Tue, 31 Mar 2026 00:48:10 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[As I discovered in Croatia! Kicked off and lost the carb float bowl. I “sort of” faked it with the bottom of a plastic water which worked but dribbled a bit. We spent a pleasant week in a ca...]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As I discovered in Croatia! Kicked off and lost the carb float bowl. I “sort of” faked it with the bottom of a plastic water which worked but dribbled a bit. We spent a pleasant week in a campground in Dubrovnik as we waited for MotoBins to come to the rescue.  I could use the dribbling /5 to do grocery runs as we waited.</p>]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>Matt Parkhouse</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/parts-is-parts/onboard-spares/#post-17101</guid>
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