I remember how much the stock seat hurt my butt on my previous R100/7. Fifteen years on, I have the typical Od Man Flat Azz Syndrome. So the problem is even worse. That is why I bought a used Russell Day Long today from an eBay seller, and I’ll soon be picking it up .

 The new seat has no grab rail/ parcel shelf, my stock seat does. My questiin is : If I remove the seat from its’ current pan , transfer it to mine, will I be able to reinstall my grab rail? I want to keep it if possible. The seat I bought is from an 82 R100Rt, while my bike  is an 84 R100RT. Thanks, Steve

I have a cast aluminum motorcycle crankcase with a hairline crack that originated from an over-tightened factory tapered pipe-thread plug. The crack radiates from the threaded boss.

The engine has not been run since the crack occurred. It’s been drained for several weeks and the area has been cleaned thoroughly. At this point the crack is very fine, and my goal is to prevent it from propagating.

I understand the conventional repair is to completely disassemble the engine, clean the casting, TIG weld it, and re-machine the boss. Unfortunately, that’s financially out of reach.

I’m not looking for someone to tell me to replace the engine. I’m trying to find an experienced machinist who thinks beyond factory procedures.

Specifically, I’m looking for someone with experience in:

• repairing cracked aluminum engine castings,
• metal stitching,
• machining out damaged bosses and installing custom inserts or bungs,
• or other mechanical repair methods for cast aluminum.

The motorcycle happens to be a 2010 Harley-Davidson Twin Cam, but I’m really looking for casting repair expertise, not Harley-specific knowledge.

I’m located just north of New York City and I’m willing to tow the motorcycle anywhere in the Northeast for the right person.

If anyone knows a machinist, engine builder, or retired craftsman with this type of experience, I’d be extremely grateful for a referral.

Thank you
chris

Thank you

I just recently bought the bike, knowing it would need some TLC, I suppose the bike has not seen much use as of late and seals and gaskets must have dried out. Oil everywhere !

Before I take things apart I will need to clean things up, what should I use to clean the caked-on oily mud from the lower half of the engine without screwing the the engine case up ?

Looking forward to cleaning it up, replacing all fluids and take her for a spin.

Karsten

Will probably need to purchase replacement exhaust system for SWB R60/5, PO welded non BMW silencers to exhaust pipes. Will have to remove entire exhaust system, now 1 pc., or cut silencers off in order to replace rear main seal and possibly the clutch.

many years ago, when I had my first /5, I was following several threads that were dealing with motor oil choices for these fine machines. If I recall correctly, there was mention of a Brand, Spectro, that had properties that are better suited for the aging seals, don't want to call it "swelling" the seals but perhaps might slow leaks. Is it wishful thinking or am I correct in recalling that fact?

I just got another R60/5 and want to change all fluids, after giving it a good bath, and if Spectro indeed can help with minor leaks, I sure would use it.

Thanks in advance, again

Thanks