Airheads Beemer Club Forum - Recent Posts

RE: New member from Holiday, FL

Richard W — Wed, 29 Jul 2026 12:30:28 +0000

Welcome from Georgia !

I think i got scamed responding to a reply to a wanted add i have in the classified.

Joseph Latouche — Wed, 29 Jul 2026 10:42:35 +0000

Have a post looking for a rear drive. Was contacted by Eathan Myers informing me that a person name Bill Goldbricht could help me out. Contacted Bill who stated he had a drive for $200.00 which he would like me to pay for with credit cards from Pay Pal. After doing so he sent another email stating a mistake was made and it should have been $300.00. He requested me to send another $100.00 and he would then ship the drive. Well at that point i decided i had been scamed. My last email to him was for him to ship the drive and upon recieving would send him the other $100.00. Do not expect this to happen. Posting this hoping it does not happen to someone else.

RE: Clutch slippage

David Elkow — Wed, 29 Jul 2026 03:22:19 +0000

My last clutch for my ‘78 R100, instead of buying new, I had it refurbished at Southland Clutch in National City (San Diego) CA. They do excellent work, the clutch has been great, and saved some $. Not sure how it would work out from Newfoundland, but worth checking. I did buy a new HD spring to go with it. Southland advertises in the Airmail.

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RE: valve adjustment after R&R cylinders

David Elkow — Wed, 29 Jul 2026 03:03:36 +0000

Well, yes, you said that up front. I should have known.

Thinking out loud then - if you assemble with the crank at OT, all valve adjusters loose. Once assembled, snug down all four adjusters. Now, rotate the engine slightly clockwise (looking from the front normal direction of rotation). You will see one of the intake valves being pressed open. The other will not be moving. THE ONE THAT IS NOT moving is the side to set clearances on first. It is at top of compression. Move the crank ccw slightly back to OT and set that side. Then rotate 360 to OT again, and set the other side.

RE: valve adjustment after R&R cylinders

jehu hand — Tue, 28 Jul 2026 19:54:23 +0000

Thank you, the problem is that the engine appeared to be frozen so I was not able to set it at OT before I removed the heads to investigate the reason why it would not turn over.

RE: valve adjustment after R&R cylinders

David Elkow — Tue, 28 Jul 2026 12:21:04 +0000

Provided you positioned the crank at OT when you took it apart, and you know which side was at the top of the compression stroke (both valves closed), and the crank has not been moved, then yes - it would go back together just like it was never apart.

Torque the heads, set the valve clearances on the first side, then rotate the crank 360 and set the other side.

Personally, I like to start the engine and run it up to 3-4,000rpm for just a couple minutes to get it good and hot, then shut it down. Let it cool completely, then re-torque the heads and re-set the valves - then go ride! Retorque and reset again at 600 miles.

RE: San Diego to Tioga Pass (throttle lock tips?)

r0ckrat — Mon, 27 Jul 2026 17:58:51 +0000

I'm not sure of compatibility requirements, but I had an original GoCruise on a bike that had GripPuppies foam covers on, and it worked great. It does slip a little over time. I think the GoCruise 2 has a clamping-force adjuster. They are available lots of places so shop around a little for the best price and delivery... The original is usually less than $20, and the 2 is usually about $33.

When you want to engage it, you just rotate it to rest on the brake lever, and just shut the throttle to disengage.

RE: valve adjustment after R&R cylinders

Richard W — Mon, 27 Jul 2026 12:14:17 +0000

Couldn't I just reinstall the rocker arms exactly as they were, and proceed to adjust the valves as if I had never opened up the cylinders?

* Yes, that is a good way to proceed.

* Expect a lot of smoke/ oil burning for the first 50 miles. Install fresh 20w50 engine oil. When the battery, carbs and all the other bits have been serviced, plan a nice 200+ mile ride out through the open country, moving at speeds that allow the engine to maintain 3000-5000 RPM ranges, without stop and go.

* When you get back, you'll want to re-check the valve clearances, carb balance, and oil levels. But the compression should have returned, with fully seated rings. Compression and starting may continue to improve for 500 more miles.

valve adjustment after R&R cylinders

jehu hand — Mon, 27 Jul 2026 02:27:33 +0000

New to me 1982 R65, barn find. The engine would not turn over when I rotated the rear wheel. I found that the right piston was stuck, but got it loose with a little PB Blaster and rubber mallet blows. Took the cylinder off to make sure there was no damage, and with 60,000 miles on the odometer, i could still see the cross hatching from honing. After verifying that the valve tappets are good, con rods are not loose, and the rings are correctly placed, I plan to reassemble with new gaskets, etc. Normally when I install the heads (being rebuilt by a shop) I would loosen the adjusting nuts. But then, how would I know which cylinder was the one to adjust valves on at OT? Couldn't I just reinstall the rocker arms exactly as they were, and proceed to adjust the valves as if I had never opened up the cylinders?

Thank you

San Diego to Tioga Pass (throttle lock tips?)

Scott Garrett — Sun, 26 Jul 2026 17:59:39 +0000

Greetings! I'm excited to ride the Eastern Sierras for three days in August. Dreading the 7 hour long trek on the 395. Anyone have suggestions for a throttle lock that is compatible with a stock 1976 BMW R90/6? I'm looking at the Avon ICruz (https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/avon-icruz-throttle-lock) but worried the mirror stem will block the functionality.

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