Relocation of the fuses was something done in the 1970's because you had to. The pointy end German fuses are totally unreliable as far as making a solid electrical connection. My proof of this is that those things haven't been used (even in German cars) since the 1980's. The fuse you want is the modern "flat pack fuse" like you'll find in your car. Not only is it a better connection, but they are easier to find while traveling.

https://i.imgur.com/qDVN3Hjl.jpg

Secondly, unless you already do a lot of wiring and have easy access to soldering irons, lots of crimps, heat shrink tubing, and heat guns... then this "fuse extension project" is going to become the most common failure point on your bike. I can say that after 12 years as a pro motorcycle mechanic and having fixed or replaced hundreds of DIY electrical projects. Lots of people, even competent electricians, completely forget that wiring on a motorcycle is completely exposed to WEATHER and vibration. These 2 devils have a way of destroying connections like no other. 

If you want reliable fuses, then replace the cone point stock fuses with some flat pack fuses, but leave the new fuse holders INSIDE the headlamp, as seen here...

Hope this helps.

https://www.amazon.com/clp/B09HH7N 

I don’t really fancy opening my headlight bucket very often. I had seen in an article , or thread, SOMEWHERE, a reference to either a kit, or perhaps just an individual that had relocated the fuse panel to one of the pockets in the fairing.  Now THAT, interests me. On a previous maxi scooter, I had a small auxiliary fuse panel,  from Eastern Beaver, I believe, that had 8 circuits, half were constant hot, keyed hot. I like that set-up, and that may be what I eventually do after upgrading the alternator. 

Previous  owner had upgraded the voltage regulator.

1. First of all... everything that's at the battery (in a messy form) is also inside the headlamp shell on the multi-colored circuit board, where it is waiting for your accessories with neat and empty spade connectors. RED is always-ON direct 12V battery power. GREEN is full 12V power controlled by the ignition switch. BROWN is the necessary Return (aka "ground").  So why would you want unmarked wires that need re-connection every time the battery is removed ? And why add 8 feet of wire to your bike when you could very easily add 10 inches ? 

2. And Steven is correct about the "always ON" nature of direct battery connections. It isn't much, but the 12V-to-5V converter inside the USB socket is constantly consuming power. On a cold night where battery voltage dips along with the air temp, that constant draw could leave an older battery in poor condition to crank the bike in the morning. (This has happened to me in Blowing Rock, NC.) And believe me, even if you know how to roll-start a motorcycle, anyone 45 years or older is NEVER going to roll off an R100 dressed in cold weather riding gear !! 

@ At night, you're going to take your phone with you into the motel room, where it can be charged by a wall outlet. That realistically only leaves the GPS system which is fully transistorized and probably only consumes (roughly) 12W. Due to cost, almost all modern driving lamps (I cannot find ANY incandescent during lamps for sale) are LED and consume around 10W each. So 2 driving lights and a TomTom bring you up to 32W. You'll definitely have that electrical power to spare by simply fitting an LED headlamp bulb. 

You can most easily bolster your stock electrical system by doing these 3 things...

• Using LED headlamp and tail lamp bulbs
• Replacing the 50 year old mechanical voltage regulator with a modem solid state version
• Replacing the alternator brushes (which have probably been in place 30 years)

And the truth is that you'll want to do all 3 of these when fitting a new alternator anyway ! The total cost of these will be under $50. And all 3 are improving your electrical system reliability. Whereas, adding a whole new alternator will not be a proven reliability improvement until you have ridden with it for at least 2 seasons. There will most probably be several "bugs" to work out. One of which may leave you using that cell phone to call for a trailer.

Regards

You might be able to mount/hang the USB port device under that shroud, then get a switch that would fit one of the covers to turn on/off the converter. Or drill a small hole in the cover and add a simple toggle switch.

I’m going to upgrade the alternator for some future auxiliary driving lights, and I don’t know what else beyond that. But I guarantee it won’t be for a heated vest or suit : I’m a wuss,  so, too cold I don’t ride. 

I'm not sure what you'd permanently wire into your Airhead that would require a permanent USB port, unless you're talking 5V device charging. In that case I'd recommend an in-line weatherproof (cigarette lighter sized) 12V port. Like This  (I suggest an "in-line" port so that when unused, it would hang pointed down and not be able to fill with water.) These are easily wired in from the "multicolor circuit board" inside the headlamp shell. Be sure to add a separate 1A fuse for this device. Like This  (Wire the whole thing with 16AWG wire and use heat shrink tubing over all exposed solder joints to exclude water.)

Into this you could plug a standard phone charger with cord. Like This  A common 2 ft charger cord can reach into your tank bag, which is where you'd want to keep your phone. Most modern tank bags now come with a weatherproof wire entrance. 

@ If you will simply install new alternator brushes and LED light bulbs into your headlamp and tail lamp, this will reduce your overall electrical power needs by at least 2.5A (35 Watts). And you'll have a brighter and safer headlamp to boot !! With the saved 35W you can then power other devices. Unless you're wanting to run a fully heated riding suit, there is simply no need for most riders to install "high output" alternators. 

I highly suggest you read the power consumption labels on every device you want to constantly power on your bike, and add them all up. If the total comes out to less than the stock alternator output, then you don't need a new alternator. DO NOT add in the power for the horn, turn signals and brake lamp.... those items are not ON as you go down the road. 

IMHO, "high output" alternators are a hold-over from the 1970's when every accessory was high-wattage. People were running 80W headlamp bulbs, full-size car radio/tape players, CB radios, and 200W incandescent driving lamps. You probably don't have ANY of those accessories. In approximately 95% of the cases today high-output alternators are simply no longer needed. Save your money !!

Hope this helps.

I removed the wheel easily. Wanted to make sure there was no ongoing issue and to replace the seal on the left side. There was no damage visible to the splines.  I also replaced the thrush bushing. It went back on again normally and I rode it around a little with no issue. Don't understand what happened but glad it is solved