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            <title>
									Airheads Beemer Club Forum - Recent Topics				            </title>
            <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/</link>
            <description>Airheads Beemer Club Discussion Board</description>
            <language>en-US</language>
            <lastBuildDate>Thu, 20 Aug 2026 10:20:40 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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							                    <item>
                        <title>Question about 1978 R100s frame damage</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/wrenching/question-about-1978-r100s-frame-damage/</link>
                        <pubDate>Mon, 17 Aug 2026 02:05:42 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[Hi All, 
I am looking over a new to me 1978 r100s. I discovered some cracks in the frame (see pictures attached). One is where the rear fender mount connects to the rear sub frame. The othe...]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi All, </p>
<p>I am looking over a new to me 1978 r100s. I discovered some cracks in the frame (see pictures attached). One is where the rear fender mount connects to the rear sub frame. The other is in the left-side flat gusset plate at the steering-head/neck area. A previous owner appears to have noticed this second one, applied something (some kind of epoxy?) as a fix, and then the frame was powder coated over the crack. Are either of these areas load bearing / require diagnosis and welding? Should I be worried? </p>
<p>Thanks, </p>
<p>Allen</p>
<div id="wpfa-33781" class="wpforo-attached-file"><a class="wpforo-default-attachment" href="//www.airheads.org/wp-content/uploads/wpforo/default_attachments/1786932342-Frame_Crack.jpg" target="_blank" title="Frame_Crack.jpg"><i class="fas fa-paperclip"></i>&nbsp;Frame_Crack.jpg</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>Allen Schroeder</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/wrenching/question-about-1978-r100s-frame-damage/</guid>
                    </item>
				                    <item>
                        <title>Questions on Changing the Stock Seat on 84 R100RT</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/airheads-discussions/questions-on-changing-the-stock-seat-on-84-r100rt/</link>
                        <pubDate>Wed, 12 Aug 2026 20:22:51 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[I’ve returned to riding now that I’ve retired, after not riding for many years. I’ve got my new Airhead now, and making a few upgrades. 
I remember how much the stock seat hurt my butt on m...]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I’ve returned to riding now that I’ve retired, after not riding for many years. I’ve got my new Airhead now, and making a few upgrades. <br /><br /></p>
<p>I remember how much the stock seat hurt my butt on my previous R100/7. Fifteen years on, I have the typical Od Man Flat Azz Syndrome. So the problem is even worse. That is why I bought a used Russell Day Long today from an eBay seller, and I’ll soon be picking it up .</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p> The new seat has no grab rail/ parcel shelf, my stock seat does. My questiin is : If I remove the seat from its’ current pan , transfer it to mine, will I be able to reinstall my grab rail? I want to keep it if possible. The seat I bought is from an 82 R100Rt, while my bike  is an 84 R100RT. Thanks, Steve</p>]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>Steven Johnson</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/airheads-discussions/questions-on-changing-the-stock-seat-on-84-r100rt/</guid>
                    </item>
				                    <item>
                        <title>Speedometer Went Whack For a Minute</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/my-airhead-needs-help/speedometer-went-whack-for-a-minute/</link>
                        <pubDate>Tue, 11 Aug 2026 00:15:40 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[I’m returning to riding after an approximately 15 year hiatus, and now retired. Picked up my new bike, an 84 R100RT in the Bay Area on Friday, and had a nice ride to our Son and family in th...]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I’m returning to riding after an approximately 15 year hiatus, and now retired. Picked up my new bike, an 84 R100RT in the Bay Area on Friday, and had a nice ride to our Son and family in the Santa Cruz Mtns. Leaving for out home in the Sierra Foothills Sunday morning, while going over Pacheco Pass at about 75-80 mph, I looked down and noticed the speedo pegged to the max. Once off the highway, and back to around 50mph., it stabilized and was about correct in my estimation, for the rest of the 1 1/2 hours to home.</p>
<p>I have the Factory Shop Manual on its’ way to me now, but want to have a look-see. I am guessing either the cable needs lubricated, or a gear is stripped. School me, please. And thank you in advance.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Steve</p>]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>Steven Johnson</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/my-airhead-needs-help/speedometer-went-whack-for-a-minute/</guid>
                    </item>
				                    <item>
                        <title>Airheads on the bluff</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/rendezvous-events/airheads-on-the-bluff/</link>
                        <pubDate>Fri, 07 Aug 2026 12:17:31 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[Is anyone else going to the &quot;Airheads on the Bluff&quot; in Deckerville Michigan next weekend, August 14-16?]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[Is anyone else going to the "Airheads on the Bluff" in Deckerville Michigan next weekend, August 14-16?]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>Vivian Andersson-Schneider</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/rendezvous-events/airheads-on-the-bluff/</guid>
                    </item>
				                    <item>
                        <title>Looking for a machinist who repairs cracked aluminum engine castings (engineering question)</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/airheads-discussions/looking-for-a-machinist-who-repairs-cracked-aluminum-engine-castings-engineering-question/</link>
                        <pubDate>Sun, 02 Aug 2026 00:26:59 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[I’m hoping to tap into the fabrication and machining experience in this community.
I have a cast aluminum motorcycle crankcase with a hairline crack that originated from an over-tightened f...]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span>I’m hoping to tap into the fabrication and machining experience in this community.</span></p>
<p><span>I have a </span><span>cast aluminum motorcycle crankcase</span><span> with a hairline crack that originated from an </span><span>over-tightened factory tapered pipe-thread plug</span><span>. The crack radiates from the threaded boss.</span></p>
<p><span>The engine </span><span>has not been run</span><span> since the crack occurred. It’s been drained for several weeks and the area has been cleaned thoroughly. At this point the crack is very fine, and my goal is to prevent it from propagating.</span></p>
<p><span>I understand the conventional repair is to completely disassemble the engine, clean the casting, TIG weld it, and re-machine the boss. Unfortunately, that’s financially out of reach.</span></p>
<p><span>I’m </span><span>not</span><span> looking for someone to tell me to replace the engine. I’m trying to find an experienced machinist who thinks beyond factory procedures.</span></p>
<p><span>Specifically, I’m looking for someone with experience in:</span></p>
<ul>
<li><span>repairing cracked aluminum engine castings,</span></li>
<li><span>metal stitching,</span></li>
<li><span>machining out damaged bosses and installing custom inserts or bungs,</span></li>
<li><span>or other mechanical repair methods for cast aluminum.</span></li>
</ul>
<p><span>The motorcycle happens to be a </span><span>2010 Harley-Davidson Twin Cam</span><span>, but I’m really looking for </span><span>casting repair expertise</span><span>, not Harley-specific knowledge.</span></p>
<p><span>I’m located just north of New York City and I’m willing to tow the motorcycle </span><span>anywhere in the Northeast</span><span> for the right person.</span></p>
<p><span>If anyone knows a machinist, engine builder, or retired craftsman with this type of experience, I’d be extremely grateful for a referral.</span></p>
<p><span>Thank you<br />chris</span></p>
<div id="wpfa-33637" class="wpforo-attached-file"><a class="wpforo-default-attachment" href="//www.airheads.org/wp-content/uploads/wpforo/default_attachments/1785630419-IMG_6182.jpeg" target="_blank" title="IMG_6182.jpeg"><i class="fas fa-paperclip"></i>&nbsp;IMG_6182.jpeg</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>Christopher Stelluti</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/airheads-discussions/looking-for-a-machinist-who-repairs-cracked-aluminum-engine-castings-engineering-question/</guid>
                    </item>
				                    <item>
                        <title>I think i got scamed responding to a reply to a wanted add i have in the classified.</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/stories-from-the-road/i-think-i-got-scamed-responding-to-a-reply-to-a-wanted-add-i-have-in-the-classified/</link>
                        <pubDate>Wed, 29 Jul 2026 10:42:35 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[Have a post looking for a rear drive. Was contacted by Eathan Myers informing me that a person name Bill Goldbricht could help me out. Contacted Bill who stated he had a drive for $200.00 wh...]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Have a post looking for a rear drive. Was contacted by Eathan Myers informing me that a person name Bill Goldbricht could help me out. Contacted Bill who stated he had a drive for $200.00 which he would like me to pay for with credit cards from Pay Pal. After doing so he sent another email stating a mistake was made and it should have been $300.00. He requested me to send another $100.00 and he would then ship the drive. Well at that point i decided i had been scamed. My last email to him was for him to ship the drive and upon recieving would send him the other $100.00. Do not expect this to happen.  Posting this hoping it does not happen to someone else.</p>]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>Joseph Latouche</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/stories-from-the-road/i-think-i-got-scamed-responding-to-a-reply-to-a-wanted-add-i-have-in-the-classified/</guid>
                    </item>
				                    <item>
                        <title>valve adjustment after R&amp;R cylinders</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/airheads-discussions/valve-adjustment-after-rr-cylinders/</link>
                        <pubDate>Mon, 27 Jul 2026 02:27:33 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[New to me 1982 R65, barn find. The engine would not turn over when I rotated the rear wheel. I found that the right piston was stuck, but got it loose with a little PB Blaster and rubber mal...]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>New to me 1982 R65, barn find. The engine would not turn over when I rotated the rear wheel. I found that the right piston was stuck, but got it loose with a little PB Blaster and rubber mallet blows. Took the cylinder off to make sure there was no damage, and with 60,000 miles on the odometer, i could still see the cross hatching from honing. After verifying that the valve tappets are good, con rods are not loose,  and the rings are correctly placed, I plan to reassemble with new gaskets, etc. Normally when I install the heads (being rebuilt by a shop) I would loosen the adjusting nuts. But then, how would I know which cylinder was the one to adjust valves on at OT? Couldn't I just reinstall the rocker arms exactly as they were, and proceed to adjust the valves as if I had never opened up the cylinders?</p>
<p>Thank you</p>]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>jehu hand</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/airheads-discussions/valve-adjustment-after-rr-cylinders/</guid>
                    </item>
				                    <item>
                        <title>San Diego to Tioga Pass (throttle lock tips?)</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/riding-trip-ideas-reports-area-information/san-diego-to-tioga-pass-throttle-lock-tips/</link>
                        <pubDate>Sun, 26 Jul 2026 17:59:39 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[Greetings!  I&#039;m excited to ride the Eastern Sierras for three days in August.  Dreading the 7 hour long trek on the 395. Anyone have suggestions for a throttle lock that is compatible with a...]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Greetings!  I'm excited to ride the Eastern Sierras for three days in August.  Dreading the 7 hour long trek on the 395. Anyone have suggestions for a throttle lock that is compatible with a stock 1976 BMW R90/6?  I'm looking at the Avon ICruz (https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/avon-icruz-throttle-lock) but worried the mirror stem will block the functionality. </p>
<div id="wpfa-33564" class="wpforo-attached-file"><a class="wpforo-default-attachment" href="//www.airheads.org/wp-content/uploads/wpforo/default_attachments/1785088779-Borrego.jpeg" target="_blank" title="Borrego.jpeg"><i class="fas fa-paperclip"></i>&nbsp;Borrego.jpeg</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>Scott Garrett</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/riding-trip-ideas-reports-area-information/san-diego-to-tioga-pass-throttle-lock-tips/</guid>
                    </item>
				                    <item>
                        <title>San Diego to Tioga Pass (throttle lock tips?)</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/riding-trip-ideas-reports-area-information/san-diego-to-tioga-pass-throttle-lock-tips/</link>
                        <pubDate>Sun, 26 Jul 2026 17:59:29 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[Greetings!  I&#039;m excited to ride the Eastern Sierras for three days in August.  Dreading the 7 hour long trek on the 395. Anyone have suggestions for a throttle lock that is compatible with a...]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Greetings!  I'm excited to ride the Eastern Sierras for three days in August.  Dreading the 7 hour long trek on the 395. Anyone have suggestions for a throttle lock that is compatible with a stock 1976 BMW R90/6?  I'm looking at the Avon ICruz (https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/avon-icruz-throttle-lock) but worried the mirror stem will block the functionality. </p>
<div id="wpfa-33563" class="wpforo-attached-file"><a class="wpforo-default-attachment" href="//www.airheads.org/wp-content/uploads/wpforo/default_attachments/1785088769-Borrego.jpeg" target="_blank" title="Borrego.jpeg"><i class="fas fa-paperclip"></i>&nbsp;Borrego.jpeg</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>Scott Garrett</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/riding-trip-ideas-reports-area-information/san-diego-to-tioga-pass-throttle-lock-tips/</guid>
                    </item>
				                    <item>
                        <title>Clutch slippage</title>
                        <link>https://www.airheads.org/community/my-airhead-needs-help/clutch-slippage/</link>
                        <pubDate>Wed, 22 Jul 2026 23:57:12 +0000</pubDate>
                        <description><![CDATA[I went out today for the longest ride I&#039;ve done on my R100 RS for about 400 km&#039;s. It was all highway running and on the way back at speed I noticed a little bit of clutch slippage. Just ridi...]]></description>
                        <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I went out today for the longest ride I've done on my R100 RS for about 400 km's. It was all highway running and on the way back at speed I noticed a little bit of clutch slippage. Just riding around low speed in town it's not noticeable as I'm not reving hard enough to make it slip. Clutch plates are a little steep so I'd rather not have to throw down right now.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Anyone have any thoughts?</p>]]></content:encoded>
						                            <category domain="https://www.airheads.org/community/"></category>                        <dc:creator>Mike Buhler</dc:creator>
                        <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.airheads.org/community/my-airhead-needs-help/clutch-slippage/</guid>
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