The number 1 falsehood people believe about EI is that "it will fix things". Due to what I previously explained, it does not. You shouldn't add an EI unless the bike is performing perfectly. 

If your bike is running great, it may perform better. If your bike is running poorly, it will most likely not run at all. 

In my experience, the most common reason to add an EI is that the auto advance unit needed replacing due to mechanical wear. At one time a Boyer EI was within ~$10 of being the same price and equal labor. 

Lots of great info  here, I have wedgetail system from Australia,  ease to fit and build quality exceptional

best wishes 

I think for now, I will hold off on this. The points and condenser are working ok, so I guess I shouldn't be poking around too much with it. I find myself getting caught up in upgrading things and getting carried away. You can easily go down an improvement rabbit hole! Or I can at least. 

Once you have installed the new system, you will want to go back
and fix the old ignition system because this gives you a simple backup system.

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl-boigns.htm

BMW R75 Electronic Ignition Install (excellent)
https://youtu.be/j4MDjTVoBzI?si=DA1YcjmDf3CvzTqs

Brooks Airhead Garage
https://youtu.be/dSYJRlTwzi0?si=CSnYt0Q2XHBBFbh2

6v Ignition Coils (pair) WITH Clamps
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl-coil6vx2.htm

Timing Cover Rubber Grommet $3.95
Part # TCGrommet095
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/tcgrommet095.htm

Digital Ignition System for AirheadsThursday, August 2, 2025

Photos

https://photos.app.goo.gl/FYrkFX5jc83yoUCe8

Compatible Ignition Coils...

The Electronic ignition must use a coil congifuration between 2 - 4Ωs,

Ideal is 3Ω. You can use stock BOSCH ignition coils used with points and

condensers. When stock Airheads use two coils wired in series, each of

these coils needs a primary resistance of 1.1Ω to 1.6Ω which provides

2.2Ω to 3.2Ω when wired in series.

The Secondary Coil Resistance 

Measure between the spark plug wire terminal and either the positive or negative terminal. 

For a single tower coil wired in series, the secondary resistance should be 13kΩ ± 1kΩ.

1. You may be ditching your new coil. Points can work with any coil, but EI may demand a specific coil impedance simply because of the way the transistorized ignition works. Pick an EI.... then pick a coil. 

2. My biggest preference is that the new EI have a built in advance curve, like the Boyer. The spring controlled "auto advance unit" is the "weak link" of mechanical ignitions. (It requires regular maintenance, and has the ignition advance curve for 1970's gasoline which hasn't been sold since 1990.) So any EI that uses all or part of the old AAU is retaining the worst part of the old ignition.

3. Most people enter into the EI purchase with zero idea about what they are getting into. Have you ever typed a long letter on your computer only to experience a power "blip" and lose the whole document ? Well, let's remember that an EI is another transistorized device, and ANY power disruption will make it forget what it was doing. So an EI demands 2 things: a very stable voltage supply, and a perfect "ground" or DC Return path. Let's not forget that you're riding a 50 year old motorcycle which has been in thousands of rain storms and cycle baths. All that water has created corrosion on all your electrical connectors. An analog ignition is happy with intermittent connections that flicker with every bump in the road AND a power source supplying only 8V. An EI (being transistor based) must have perfect connections AND a continuous voltage supply of at least 12V. 

Your motorcycle's harness is actually housing 3 separate functions: ignition, charging, and lighting. Before you even think about EI you should be going over every single electrical connection, relay terminal and battery connection serving the first 2 of those functions with a compound (such as No-Ox-Id by Sanchem) that promote electrical connectivity and fights connector corrosion. Do it now while you have the luxury of time, rather than after the EI when you are forced to. 

After you solve those 3 problems, then you'll be ready to enjoy your new EI. 

Recently, I've decided to upgrade my /5's ignition system with an upgraded higher watt stator, new 3 ohm coil, higher voltage regulator, battery, and a more modern diode board. 

What do you guys think of the aftermarket electronic ignition systems out there? Is there one that is better than the others? Or more reliable? I don't have an issue with points and condenser, but if switching to an electronic unit will increase the overall reliability or performance of the ignition system, I might be convinced to convert. 

Thanks!