Double Row Timing Chains for Dummies

YOU CAN DO IT. You will want to replace everything. Don’t do a rinky dink job that will need to be redone sooner rather than later. Replace the chain $35, crankshaft nose bearing $10 and sprocket $65. Also replace the tensioner $10 and spring $2, and all gaskets and seals $17. These are 2003 prices. I got everything from Motobins and Eurotech. I found that the most worn piece was the crankshaft sprocket. The chain and bearing actually do not wear that much, but that sprocket is half the size of the cam sprocket and made of some soft stuff. The teeth get narrow and pointy. The gap between the teeth gets really wide as the sprocket wears. That’s where most of the slop in the old chain comes from.

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Changing a Timing Chain

Getting started: I, having done this a number of times, budget about three to four hours to do this task. I’ve done it in two hours with everything going well. Sometimes you find the exhaust nuts are frozen on. Sometimes the universe is just not going to let you get that keeper/clip on the timing chain until you have REALLY demonstrated you want it. And so on. First time? Four hours: minimum. I would place this in the “advanced intermediate” catagory of dificulty.

Change oil if it is nearing that time. Turn engine to Top-Dead-Center. You have to clear away obstructing parts first: namely the front wheel, fender and exhasut system. Drop the exhaust pipes and headers, pull the front wheel and remove the fender/lower sliders, after draining fork oil (now might be a great time to do fork seals too…). It helps to have the bike on the center stand and a couple of 2X4s to get the front end up. Now remove the tank, disconnect the battery ground cable, loosen the carbs and remove the air cleaner assembly. Remove the starter motor cover, this is the cast aluminium piece on top of the engine block, you may have to undo the coils and move them out of the way to accomplish this.

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