German Words You Might Want Or Need To Know

Sometimes there are problems with spelling and/or sound, resulting in the opposite..or otherwise wrong meaning than what was meant. The German “Auf” is such a situation. 

We usually order by part number or perhaps from a sketch or we describe where it goes/fits/etc. Almost all the time, this works quite well. Not always.

There are a few instances where languages have caused some serious confusion (besides politics and personal relationships!). There are situations where something is not described in your language properly, only in German, in literature pertaining to our motorcycles.

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Critique of the Chitech BMW Electric School Manual

The above manual has been reprinted and is again available: http://www.crbmw.com/rokcart

The Electrics manual is $30. This manual is the best electrics manual for Airheads. Oak was primarily responsible for the manual. This manual is highly recommended by me, Snowbum.

My comments below are applicable to my copy which is dated 1993 on the front cover; and maybe to yours, if the manual is the same inside. Do let me know if your manual is not the same as mine ….when comparing my pages and notes, below.

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Chemicals. Oils & additives (not engine, gearbox, shaft, rear drive). Assembly Lubes. Greases. Loctite. Sealants. Anti-seize. Electrical Contact Treatment. Waxes. Wheel paint. Tank Coatings. Windshield & Visors. Cleaners for hands & parts.

Chemicals. Oils (not engine, transmission, driveshaft, rear drive). Assembly Lubes. Additives. Greases. Loctite. Sealants. Anti-seize. Electrical Contact Treatments.  Waxes. Wheel paint. Tank Cleaning/Coatings. Windshield & Visor Maintenance. Other Cleaners

For BMW motorcycles, but with many applications to other makes.

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Buying or Selling a Motorcycle

This is not an article on pre-purchase-inspecting a BMW air-cooled twin motorcycle (aka Airhead, manufactured 1970 to 1995). Nor does this article contain information about how to prepare the motorcycle for sale. This is an article for a seller and purchaser about safety in negotiations and making a deal, test rides, handling a title, etc. The author’s website contains well over 100 articles on maintenance, but I do not necessarily expect you to read them prior to, for example, purchasing a motorcycle. If you are new to BMW Airhead motorcycles, I suggest you post an inquiry to the free Airheads LIST, for comments on things you should know about Airheads, and if you have a specific model (and perhaps year), or specific questions, that LIST is THE place for inquiries. Different years and models have specific things to know and be aware of. You may join the LIST here: http://lists.micapeak.com/mailman/listinfo/airheads

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CAN-BUS and OBDII. What are they? CAUTIONS on using de-sulfating battery chargers? What’s the future?

Can-bus is being discussed here primarily to give you some knowledge about it, even though it is not used on Airheads.

Can-Bus is the same as  CANBUSS, CAN-BUSS, Canbus, CanBus). OBD means On Board Diagnostics. OBDII or OBD2 is the second version, in very common use now. Can-Bus MAY be associated with OBD in a vehicle, and it may not be.

Can-Bus is a method, hardware & software; to enable communications between ‘electrical & electronics things’ on your vehicle; these ‘things’ can also be mechanical, with electrical sensors. Can-Bus stands for Controller Area Network, & the ‘Bus’ part is explained later herein.

As you will see in the section on the future, it can do a lot more than just in-vehicle communications between ‘things’. While Can-Bus will be mostly discussed here, as it is installed by BMW in your bike (was not in Airheads), etc., the information may be similar for any system such as all the varieties of OBDII….all modern cars have such a system; & a diagnostic plug to access it. Can-Bus systems have the ability to transmit information between components at high speed, & to actually make changes in the operation of items. OBD can do some of that, but most think OBD is just diagnostic, retaining information in memory, until downloaded for diagnostic work, or such work can include erasing memory, modifying how systems work, etc. But, that is not really true ….it can be a serious part of actually operating the vehicle systems.

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Installing an accessory electrical outlet; also, Hella-DIN adaptors with USB output

Recommendations forDIN adaptors to USB connectors; also wired versions:  

It is not easy to find these; especially for good reliable ones with plugs that do not release from vibration, etc….and at a reasonable price. I tested the following products for temperature, output, regulation, ETC.  Price is reasonable.  These connect to your motorcycles electrical system, either to the battery, or to the system after the ignition switch, or simply plug into an existing DIN jack (or, one you add) on your motorcycle.  These adaptors I recommend are NOT cheap cigarette lighter socket plugs but quality Hella-DIN types, that grip well into your socket.  All have 5 volt USB type outputs. Single and dual versions, either with 2.1 or 3.3 ampere ratings for output.  

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Airhead Lift

For a number of routine and repeated maintenance jobs, you need to raise the bike. Here is a classic cheap Airhead approach to getting the bike high enough into the air to easily remove a rear tire, work on forks, etc. and to do it alone.

Basically, we are going to put some blocks under each foot of the centerstand, tilting side to side to get the blocks underneath. But centerstands and bike geometries vary some and so you might wish to experiment a bit before rushing ahead to cut all the lift-blocks.

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Headlamp Cutout Switch

This is simple and self-evident to most anybody with a soldering iron but here we go….

First a primer on headlamps. Rated at 55 watts, an H4 lowbeam headlamp consumes around 55 watts, I guess, which is something like 4-5 amps. With a 240 watt alternator and with barely any charge below 2500 rpm, goofing around in the city, prior to cranking on a cold morning, or when your electric system is failing, it would be good to be able to switch off the lamp. Moreover, the parking lamp is on all the time and can make-do for a substantial part of the safety and regulatory issues, especially in the daytime. Finally, if you need some lamp action, you can always flick on the highbeam the two habitual ways which are unaffected by this mod.

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Ampmeters versus Voltmeters

I see little reason in having having an ammeter permanently installed on any BMW motorcycle, unless you have special circumstances. I foresee several drawbacks, not the least of which is a potential fire hazard, which includes burning up your bike’s wiring; besides the usual situation of LESS reliability with many modifications; especially with added electrical items.  I will lay out the benefits, and the problems, for both ammeters and voltmeters. The GEN lamp provides quite a bit of information if you interpret it correctly….but it may not be enough FOR YOU.

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