I am not sure that the upgrades you propose buys a sufficient dose of "more better" to justify the cost. 

If you are upgrading your alternator with a product from EME, then I would suggest including their Enduralast/Sachse ignition system, which is “crank fired” with a pickup on the front of the alternator. Using this ignition you can leave the points in place as a backup.

@8053 It was all necessary in my opinion, the charging system had a lot of issues.

If you are set on upgrading to electronic ignition I would suggest picking one that would be easy to swap back to the original set up in the case that the electronics fail on the road. I have the Tri-Spark ignition on my R100, and I still carry the original ignition system as a backup. I have contemplated going back to the OEM set up as there is no way to know if this new set up will fail out of the blue one day, or not. The original set up lasted nearly 40 years and 60K miles, that's worth something.

If you are considering an electronic ignition (EI) then there is a lot to think about before you buy....

1. You may be ditching your new coil. Points can work with any coil, but EI may demand a specific coil impedance simply because of the way the transistorized ignition works. Pick an EI.... then pick a coil. 

2. My biggest preference is that the new EI have a built in advance curve, like the Boyer. The spring controlled "auto advance unit" is the "weak link" of mechanical ignitions. (It requires regular maintenance, and has the ignition advance curve for 1970's gasoline which hasn't been sold since 1990.) So any EI that uses all or part of the old AAU is retaining the worst part of the old ignition.

3. Most people enter into the EI purchase with zero idea about what they are getting into. Have you ever typed a long letter on your computer only to experience a power "blip" and lose the whole document ? Well, let's remember that an EI is another transistorized device, and ANY power disruption will make it forget what it was doing. So an EI demands 2 things: a very stable voltage supply, and a perfect "ground" or DC Return path. Let's not forget that you're riding a 50 year old motorcycle which has been in thousands of rain storms and cycle baths. All that water has created corrosion on all your electrical connectors. An analog ignition is happy with intermittent connections that flicker with every bump in the road AND a power source supplying only 8V. An EI (being transistor based) must have perfect connections AND a continuous voltage supply of at least 12V. 

Your motorcycle's harness is actually housing 3 separate functions: ignition, charging, and lighting. Before you even think about EI you should be going over every single electrical connection, relay terminal and battery connection serving the first 2 of those functions with a compound (such as No-Ox-Id by Sanchem) that promote electrical connectivity and fights connector corrosion. Do it now while you have the luxury of time, rather than after the EI when you are forced to. 

After you solve those 3 problems, then you'll be ready to enjoy your new EI. 

A simple fix would be a Digital Ignition System from EME.
This is a simple installation, and you will love it.
You must check for proper resistance on your coils (about 13K ohms)
and use NON resistive spark plugs.

Once you have installed the new system, you will want to go back
and fix the old ignition system because this gives you a simple backup system.

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl-boigns.htm

BMW R75 Electronic Ignition Install (excellent)
https://youtu.be/j4MDjTVoBzI?si=DA1YcjmDf3CvzTqs

Brooks Airhead Garage
https://youtu.be/dSYJRlTwzi0?si=CSnYt0Q2XHBBFbh2

6v Ignition Coils (pair) WITH Clamps
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl-coil6vx2.htm

Timing Cover Rubber Grommet $3.95
Part # TCGrommet095
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/tcgrommet095.htm

Digital Ignition System for AirheadsThursday, August 2, 2025

Photos

https://photos.app.goo.gl/FYrkFX5jc83yoUCe8

Compatible Ignition Coils...

The Electronic ignition must use a coil congifuration between 2 - 4Ωs,

Ideal is 3Ω. You can use stock BOSCH ignition coils used with points and

condensers. When stock Airheads use two coils wired in series, each of

these coils needs a primary resistance of 1.1Ω to 1.6Ω which provides

2.2Ω to 3.2Ω when wired in series.

The Secondary Coil Resistance 

Measure between the spark plug wire terminal and either the positive or negative terminal. 

For a single tower coil wired in series, the secondary resistance should be 13kΩ ± 1kΩ.

All good advice. Thanks!

I think for now, I will hold off on this. The points and condenser are working ok, so I guess I shouldn't be poking around too much with it. I find myself getting caught up in upgrading things and getting carried away. You can easily go down an improvement rabbit hole! Or I can at least. 

hi 

Lots of great info  here, I have wedgetail system from Australia,  ease to fit and build quality exceptional

best wishes 

Posted by: @blake-wester

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I think for now, I will hold off on this. The points and condenser are working ok, so I guess I shouldn't be poking around too much with it. I find myself getting caught up in upgrading things and getting carried away. You can easily go down an improvement rabbit hole! 

The number 1 falsehood people believe about EI is that "it will fix things". Due to what I previously explained, it does not. You shouldn't add an EI unless the bike is performing perfectly. 

If your bike is running great, it may perform better. If your bike is running poorly, it will most likely not run at all. 

In my experience, the most common reason to add an EI is that the auto advance unit needed replacing due to mechanical wear. At one time a Boyer EI was within ~$10 of being the same price and equal labor.