Replacing Rear Main Seal – 3 (Parkhouse)

This will be a long one… So I’ll break the reply into two parts: Tear down and reassembly.

Parts to have on hand… Rear main seal, oil pump O-ring, oil pump cover and 4 bolts (upgraded since /6 series), 5 new flywheel bolts, 4 driveshaft lockwashers, 4 driveshaft bolts, 6 clutch bolts, a new driveshaft boot if the old one is cracked or leaking.

Special tools… Clutch compressing screws (you can use bolts and nuts-less handy but works OK, or get from Ed Korn [seeĀ Links]), a flywheel brake (make out of bar stock or get from Ed Korn), rear main seal installer: from Ed Korn, 6mm allen drive on 3/8 socket, torque wrench, 10mm-12 point box end wrench (I like Snap-on’s), 27mm or 1 1/16″ socket (turned or ground down on outside), micrometer or calipers, slide hammer with hook attachment, impact screwdriver with large phillips bit.

Place bike on center stand (if a “Ride-off stand”, block up on 2X4s), you want to be able to turn rear wheel freely. Drain gearbox if work is planned on it. Drain driveshaft as oil will spill when it is disconnected. Remove gas tank, set aside out of way. Take carbs off cylinders and hang over front of cylinders, out of way.

You must be a member to view complete articles on this website. If you are already a member, you can log in here. If you aren’t a member yet, you can purchase a membership here.

Continue readingMore Tag

Changing a Timing Chain

Getting started: I, having done this a number of times, budget about three to four hours to do this task. I’ve done it in two hours with everything going well. Sometimes you find the exhaust nuts are frozen on. Sometimes the universe is just not going to let you get that keeper/clip on the timing chain until you have REALLY demonstrated you want it. And so on. First time? Four hours: minimum. I would place this in the “advanced intermediate” catagory of dificulty.

Change oil if it is nearing that time. Turn engine to Top-Dead-Center. You have to clear away obstructing parts first: namely the front wheel, fender and exhasut system. Drop the exhaust pipes and headers, pull the front wheel and remove the fender/lower sliders, after draining fork oil (now might be a great time to do fork seals too…). It helps to have the bike on the center stand and a couple of 2X4s to get the front end up. Now remove the tank, disconnect the battery ground cable, loosen the carbs and remove the air cleaner assembly. Remove the starter motor cover, this is the cast aluminium piece on top of the engine block, you may have to undo the coils and move them out of the way to accomplish this.

The remainder of this article is only available for Airheads Beemer Club members. Please login or purchase a membership here to join the Airheads Beemer Club, after which you will enjoy access this article and all members only content of the ABC web site.

Continue readingMore Tag
Scroll to top