Alternators – Stock

BMW uses 3 phase electricity generators called alternators on all models since 1969, & some before that date. Why 3 phases? 3 Phase is more efficient at converting rotational energy to electricity. 3 phases enables the same or much more output in a smaller, lighter package, even less steel laminations are needed, & possibly more charging at lower rpm & possibly less horsepower drain on the engine. 3 phase is usually better for vehicles with radios & other electronics, as the system is, in effect, using an A.C. generator at higher frequencies than single phase. That means that with the battery acting like a monstrously large capacitor (which it DOES), alternator whine noise & other problems is MUCH reduced in a 3 phase system, compared to single phase. There are various other advantages that 3 phase offers. The 3 phase rotor MAY have less inertia, thus better vehicle acceleration, assuming diameter is kept small & overall inertia similarly, thus there may be a lowering of torsional stresses on the shaft & components. That last item can be critical on some engines where the rotor is affixed to the crankshaft & can be considered an extension of the crankshaft.

A 3 phase alternator is more compact & efficient … up to 1.73 times electrically more efficient.

At the link here, scan down the article, are sketches of the waveforms & some additional detailed information on single and three phase systems.  http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/boxerelectrics.htm. The sketches will help you understand 3-phase.

Ø is the symbol universally accepted in electrical circuits for ‘phase’. A 3Ø system has few drawbacks. One is that the diodes circuitry used for rectification is more complex & there are more diodes; another is complexity & more labor in manufacturing.

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Alternator, Rotor, Stator, Brushes, etc.

Rotors and Stators:

This has been a confusing subject to many. Anton Largiader’s website article with text & photos will explain explain some things; or, some differently. I have minor disagreements with his article, BUT….it does have some useful information & has some photos you should look at. I have the most detailed and pertinent information here in my own article. Read Anton’s article here: http://largiader.com/articles/charging

The original /5 BMW Airhead motorcycles had a 180 watt alternator with the end that fits into the motor timing chest cavity being 105 mm in diameter. SOME 1974-1975 /6 bikes, & possibly a few barely into 1976, were made with the 105 mm cavity. These /6 bikes with 105 mm stators had 280 watt alternators, so it is possible to upgrade a /5 from the 180 watt alternator to a 105 mm 280 watt alternator with the appropriate parts changes and the parts WILL FIT. These changes are stator & diode board, at a minimum. If your /5 rotor measures ~7 ohms, which was the original value, then I recommend it be changed to a next version rotor of ~3.4 to 4 ohms; the electronics VR is optional, but recommended. ALL /6 and later stators had a center tap on the stator windings, & some small diodes were added to the diode board. If you do not use the /6 or later diode board, the output will be less. I suggest NOT using the last version of the Airhead rotors, which were ~2.8 ohms. For all other /6 and all later Airhead motorcycles, the cavity and stator were 107mm.

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Valve Seat Recession – A Definitive Reply

A considerable percentage of BMW Airhead motorcycles have had various valve and/or valve seat problems, up until the 1985 models. This article will try to explain the background, and why the various problems developed, and why some have problems and some do not. Note that air-cooled motorcycles are more subject to ‘top-end’ stresses, than water cooled motorcycles.

Tetraethyl lead, TEL, is dangerous if absorbed through your skin when in pure form and much less so in diluted form, and it is a form of lead previously used extensively, highly diluted, in gasoline.  Way back when it was still in use (still is in some parts of the World) it was sold by the Ethyl Corporation, and such gasoline’s had a nickname:  Ethyl.

This compound has TWO major effects. First, in sufficiently high percentage, it can raise the octane value a fair amount, very important in WWII aircraft engines, especially those that were supercharged; some were both supercharged AND turbocharged. The original purpose for using tetraethyl lead in gasoline was specifically for raising octane. Some of those aircraft engines required 145 octane gasoline. Usage for the purpose of raising octane was carried forward for decades for cars, because it was cheaper, even when the lead was sold to the refineries expensively by the then Ethyl Corporation, than using only refining methods to increase octane. Many decades ago, premium (higher octane) gasoline’s were simply called “Ethyl”. Usually those gasoline’s had MORE TEL (Tetra Ethyl Lead). There is a lot more to this story, this is a simplified version of lead usage.

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Starting your Airhead motorcycle, including in cold weather

Cold weather starting is nearly always done, & properly so, by using 100% full choke and manipulating the throttle a bit during cranking, as the engine begins to start. Have the clutch lever at the handlebars pulled-in during the cranking to reduce loading of the starter motor by the transmission with its cold thick oil. Helps the battery too.

Many manuals, including the factory Owners Manuals will say to not touch the throttle. In my experience, that is wrong. I have found that most Airheads require some throttle manipulation upon starting in cold weather, and often in mild weather.

As soon as the engine is running, reduce the amount of choke as soon as you can, yet if you need to, and you likely will, keep ‘some’ choke on, until you have smooth running, including when riding.  Too quick a reduction may result in the engine dying and needing a restart.  Typically the choke lever is returned to ~half-way within half a minute. Even in the coldest weather, the choke lever should be returnable within a few minutes to the half-way position, and not long after to full off …or, nearly so. For very cold weather, try to keep the rpm between 1200-1500 during non-moving time until some decent warmup is had.

Never blip the throttle to high rpm when starting, this is particularly very bad with a cold engine and wear will be high.  In some situations you can break rings or collapse an oil filter with a quite cold engine. Generally, you can start an engine & take off modestly, using quite moderate rpm, after 30 seconds to 2 minutes of high idle rpm (1200-1500), if the temperature is down to as low as 40°F or so.  I suggest using modest throttle when taking off, and not going over 4500 rpm, preferably not over 4000, until the engine is warmed some, which takes a couple of minutes.  

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Rocker arms, shafts, bushings/bearings. Rocker arm breakage. Valve gear. Pushrod tubes. Various parts of the cylinder heads

BREAKAGE OF ROCKER ARMS:

This is a rare occurrence, usually happens under racing conditions, with very high rpm, and/or high lift cams, increased valve spring strength, insufficient spring clearance at maximum lift, etc. However, it did happen, but rarely, on stock early Airheads, in non-racing use, and only in the /7 era, as far as I know. If you look closely at a rocker arm, immediately next to where the ADJUSTOR screws into the rocker arm, the web width there on the suspect rocker arms is about 7 mm wide. BMW made a production change and the rockers with the factory change had a 11 mm width. There was no change in the rocker part number. It does not appear to be a formal re-call by the Factory. I am not listing all the rocker part numbers, except two, because:
1. No new rockers are available that are 7 mm.
2. It is easy to confuse yourself over the SEVERAL part numbers used for the rockers. The original part numbers, long gone now, were 11-33-1-262-403 and -404.
3. You can measure your rockers.

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Pulse Air Injection, fuel & evaporative controls systems

Pulse air injection system; evaporative and fuel solenoids systems, as on BMW Airhead Motorcycles Pulse-Air (Clean Air) System Description: Beginning with the 1980 U.S.A. models, BMW incorporated a modification that injected clean air drawn from the aircleaner area into the exhaust ports. Only the rectangular air-cleaner motorcycles have this system. The purpose of this essentially […]

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Oil Discussion

This discussion is also likely applicable to most old flat tappet engines, including some VW, Porsche, old Corvettes, etc.

Revised by the Author 11/05/2007, 11/01/2009; minor revision on 06/02/2014; edit again on 06/20/2018

Over the years, oils have been a popular subject for discussions in our motorcycle publications, club magazines, & on-line LISTS & Forums and Facebook, etc. I am not sure just why that is, but I suspect it has to do with our society of easy fixitus, or ‘I need to do something to feel good’, maybe a panacea for the masses…and maybe male ego, ..and who knows what else!  Certainly there is a large amount of placebo effect. REAL facts are hard to come by, and so-called ‘evidence’ abounds, and may be quite difficult to verify. There is a considerable amount of so-called ‘information’. Some is good, some is anecdotal, some based on testimonials, some sort of like ‘my brother told me of his friend who has a friend who told him that…’; or, ‘my mechanic who has decades of experience, says….

Did you ASK that person just HOW he REALLY got that information he is giving you?   Does that mechanic friend have a sweetheart ‘deal’ with a particular oil’s distributor?  Has he ever REALLY seriously tested oils in Airheads?   How did he test them?   Has he looked at hundreds of Airhead cams and lifters?   Do YOU believe the stories often heard>>that “car oils are plenty good enough, you hardly need pricey specialty oils?”.    Some information even seems scientifically derived, and implies itself to be definitive; in MANY instances this is NOT SO. In addition, there is all that advertising. SORRY, but those hyped additives like Slick50, QMI, etc., and those tests on TV of engines run without oil….these are sideshows; you never hear the entire story of the tests.  DO NOT believe these folks. YES, it is true that you MAY (or may NOT) have SLIGHTLY less friction, SLIGHTLY higher fuel economy, etc. HOWEVER, you will also likely get much increased WEAR (YES, you can have LESS friction and considerably MORE wear!), the product may settle out or ‘clump’, thereby plugging oil passages and oil filters, and LOTS more ills. This can lead to oil starvation and catastrophic engine damage. As for additives like Bardahl or Rislone or Marvel Mystery Oil: don’t use them, they can remove the protective coatings on your engine parts.  
BUT:  There ARE A FEW places that Rislone can be of help, and one is temporary use in a Classic K-bike, to hopefully free up a slipping starter drive clutch….aka Sprag Clutch.

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Oil Coolers

Why an oil cooler?

Air cooled motorcycles can run quite hot in some situations. This includes large amounts of throttle power for long periods of time; pulling a trailer or sidecar where a lot of engine power is needed; extremely bad traffic conditions; use of fairings in general (particularly fairing lower center pieces that are not ventilated). Engine cooling is obviously worse in quite hot weather. Your BMW Airhead engine has more than enough cylinder fins & head fins to dissipate enough engine heat in most circumstances, including some fairly extensive stop & go traffic, & modest speeds pulling a trailer or sidecar. But, there are limits.

For proper engine operation, lubrication, protection, etc., engine oil should operate in a reasonable temperature range after the engine has warmed up; not too cold, not too hot. The oil also needs proper viscosity over its expected temperature range in the engine. Usually, a multi-grade oil such as 20W50 is used in our Airheads. Quality 20W50 motorcycle oil is far better than the old single grades type of oils, & is quite adequate for most conditions, but a thinner oil might be wise if temperatures are at or below freezing; perhaps a 10W40. 10W50 and 15W50 oils are also available.

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Oil and Filter Changes, Procedures, Technical Information, and the $2000 O-Ring

Your /5 and later BMW Airhead motorcycle has a well-deserved reputation for reliability and exceptionally long life.  Regular oil and filter changes based on both time and mileage are necessary.  Use of a quality oil and quality oil filter is highly recommended.  There have been quite a few different filter numbers, filter styles, and methods of fitting them and associated parts such as O-rings, gaskets, shims, and oil cooler attachments, over the years of Airhead production.  This article will attempt to cover all versions,  models,  situations.  HOWEVER, the Author’s website has several articles, number 49 through 51D, THAT SHOULD BE READ; these cover things in more depth; things you REALLY NEED to know.  Please be sure to read all those articles.

Failure to follow recommended procedures, particularly on /7 and later models, or any model with an oil cooler, can result in $$$ repairs. There is a critical white round large rubber O-ring used on the outer cover on models with oil coolers, and also used on later models without coolers. That O-ring must be in good condition, and under proper mechanical mounting pressure, in the proper way. A failure here can result in an engine rebuild costing at least $2000; and if the crankshaft failed, perhaps over $3500. Reading articles 49-51D on the author’s website AND the entire article you are reading will make you an INFORMED owner, highly unlikely to make an expensive mistake…or allow someone else to make such a mistake.    

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Torque Wrench Discussion & Conversions

BMW made some serious mistakes many years ago in converting metric to English values in various of their publications. They admitted this. In BMW Motorcycle Dealer Bulletin (Vol II, No 23,  dated 3/1982) BMW SAID NOT TO USE ANY PUBLISHED BMW CONVERSIONS FOUND IN BRACKETS IMMEDIATELY BEHIND THE MILLIMETER FIGURES, IN ALL SERVICE LITERATURE, INCLUDING RIDERS MANUALS, SHOP MANUALS, etc.   This means that BMW meant for you to NOT USE published foot-pounds of torque, or any other torque value other than the metric.   You can almost always TRUST BMW’s figures in Nm….although I recommend less torque, for such as spark plugs; wheel preload, ATU nut, alternator rotor bolt, and a few other places, with some special cautions on the flywheel (clutch carrier) bolts.

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