You didn't mention the mileage, but it's probably about time to replace your cam chain. Open the front cover again, remove the alternator again, then remove the inner engine cover. This is fairly simple and straight forward work, all performed with tool kit tools.

• One of the keys to reducing engine noise is to check the chain-to-sprocket fit. When the chain stretches it no longer fits the large sprocket correctly all the way around, thus generating noise.

• Another is to replace the tensioner blade AND (most importantly) install the updated tensioner plunger SPRING.

Note there are 2 chain blades and only the tensioner side of the equation (the RH blade) will need replacement if wear is proceeding normally. If you work slowly and methodically, you can, using very simple shop aids (like the cable ties in the photo) keep the plunger compressed AND pull the two chain ends together to install the master link. About 2 hours start to finish.

Also note that different batteries require different charge rates. In days gone by there were only flooded cell batteries. Now there are 3 or 4 diffent constructions and each has it's own individual charge rate. You may require an adjustable voltage regulator to get the most from your battery.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the fast response. The mileage is around 28,500, but considering the bike sat for a long time, nothing surprises me. Your suggestion seems to be spot on and parallels my assumptions. I especially appreciate the photos showing how to retain the tensioner. I also considered the bearing being bad, so will check that out when I get it apart. It's going to be awhile before I can get to work (medical issues requiring surgery) but I'll keep you posted as to the outcome when I get to work on it. Again, thanks a million for your help.
Pete

Pete -
• Good thinking. Ball bearings can indeed collect condensate during long storage if the temp isn't controlled. Then they develop small rust pits in the bearing race, which can generate very loud noises, far out of proportion to the damaged area. Usually this type damage shows up ~200-500 miles after the bike is put back on the road. Once the cover is off, that's a cheap item to replace.

• For better battery charging while the inner cover is off....
1) Get rid of the original 4 rubber rectifier mounts. The inner cover should be converted to use solid metal rectifier standoffs. http://motoelekt.com/charging.htm
2) Both the alternator and the rectifier are electrically connected to the inner cover. But due to the paper gaskets, the inner cover can become electrically isolated from everything else. Best to run a copper wire from the inner cover to the starter mounting bolt or similar on the main part of the engine.

• On engines over 20 years old, never miss an opportunity to replace o-rings and oil seals when covers are removed for other service. The inner front cover has several.

• Keep us posted about YOUR condition... and then that of the bike.

All the best, my friend.

Thanks a million, Wobbly. Was able to change the timing chain, guide, tensioner, along with the bearing, and now my R100 makes regular airhead noises. Had to do it between surgeries, and it took a bit longer than 2 hours, but was well worth it. New surgery coming up tis week, so will be awhile before I can get back traveling, but now have something to look forward to. Thanks again!

From all of us here.... Best wishes for a VERY fast recovery and getting back on the road.