Electronic Ignitions (EI) are simply different. It's not like going from incandescent tail light bulb to LED bulb. It's more like going from a hand crank Victrola to an MP4 player. It's a complete "generational" change.

Not all, but some EI can be very sensitive to...

> Ignition coil impedance. 

> Battery input voltage, as measured at the input to the black box, not the battery.

> Hall sensor wiring. Remember "points" wires are carrying battery voltage (~14.2V) while the Hall sensor wire is carrying ~2V. If your wiring isn't in perfect condition and resistance free, then you could be in for a long haul. 

> General wiring condition. "Points" ignition will run on anything from 8 to 14V. That is, they are very forgiving. EI is transistorized and thus operate using voltages mostly around 5V, with voltage sensitivities in the 0.1V range. If the wiring on your bike is not up to parr with the wiring inside your computer, then you may be in for the hair-pulling experience of your life.

Lastly... I would NEVER buy an EI that depends in any way on the spring controlled Auto Advance Unit for its ignition curve. The ignition curve should be controlled by software within the controller... not some worn-out mechanical device that was once optimized for fuels which have not been available since the 1970's !!! 

The best advice I can give you is that you DO NOT install IE on a poorly running bike to get it to perform better. Absolutely NOT ! You need to install EI on a perfectly tuned bike that has never, ever run better. This because you absolutely cannot tell the difference between a worn needle jet, a bum spark plug cap, or a poor EI input voltage issue. You can literally spend months (e.g. completely miss the summer riding season) sorting it all out.

You get the general idea.

Good luck.

Wish i were closer, i would join you. I have the EME system on my ‘78 R100(was RS). It’s a really good ignition. If you still have your bosch alternator, you get the model with the optical trigger that fits the bosch. They also have a model that fits their Enduralast alternator. Nice feature is that the original points or bean can can stay in place, and is there as a backup.

i mounted my module on top of my solid state regulator.

are you dual plugged?  They have advance curves (selectable) for single or dual plugged.

EME is very specific about coil primary resistance 3 ohm (2 - 1.5 coils in series like stock, or single dual output 3 ohm coil). And secondary resistance 5k ohm caps on non-resistor plugs.  I am dual plugged, so i have 2 - 1.5 ohm dual output coils in series for 3 ohm. 

Thanks, guys! Started tearing it apart. Found I have the transistorized version, that comes with a single, dual-tower coil. Except, I have 2 coils that resemble the bosch ones. New coil just shipped from EME. Now I will know, I have all matching, all new wires, all new everything. And yes, while there is a problem I'm chasing, I've pretty much narrowed it down. The carbs have been redone, hopefully this fixes issues. However- I have found broken connectors. If this fixes everything, it might have been a 50 cent plug causing it. Oh well, it certainly wouldn't hurt to update the whole thing.

But yes, apparently, this bike had a different ignition module, bean can, and coils, from stock. It was working (as mentioned, with issues that might or might not be part of this), but it's such a hodge-podge, it's probably a good idea just to standarize everything, even if it doesn't fix issues. It is my understanding, this should have the bean can with the condenser on the side. It does not. this type of bean can, is used with the transistorized ignition module, which this looks like it is. That ignition module is used with a dual-tower coil of .7 ohm. I didn't measure what I got (decided it doesn't matter, just getting new), but I have 2 coils, presumably at .035 ohm. Now I'll have the entire enduralast setup, 3 ohm dual-tower coil they recommend, and it will run like a top! (Fingers crossed.)