You are looking for motor oil with an API service rating of SG. Lately, I have been using Spectro Heavy Duty 20W50 non-synthetic.

You are looking for motor oil with an API service rating of SG. Lately, I have been using Spectro Heavy Duty 20W50 non-synthetic.

Thanks. Is that the Spector 4 20w50 mineral based oil on Capital Cycles? I can't read the specs on it. If not, where are you getting it? Thanks again

Here's a link:

http://www.capitalcycle.com/SPECTRO-4-20w50-Mineral-Based-Engine-Oil_p_251.html

You could call Capitol Cycle and ask 'em. My local independent shop will order a box of Spectro H/D for me when I need some. Here's another tip, Mobil1 20W50 V-Twin oil has, or used to have the API SG rating as well. You might find that at Auto-zone or one of the others. I clicked on the link to Capitol Cycle and on the image of the back label, using their magnifying glass effect, I could see the API rating as SL. I think that would be more appropriate for more modern bikes with catalytic converters.

You could call Capitol Cycle and ask 'em. My local independent shop will order a box of Spectro H/D for me when I need some. Here's another tip, Mobil1 20W50 V-Twin oil has, or used to have the API SG rating as well. You might find that at Auto-zone or one of the others. I clicked on the link to Capitol Cycle and on the image of the back label, using their magnifying glass effect, I could see the API rating as SL. I think that would be more appropriate for more modern bikes with catalytic converters.

Your eyes are obviously better than mine on seeing the API rating.

I thought Mobile 1 was synthetic only.

I guess it would be too much to ask if BMW still marketed SG rated oil. I actually have a couple of qt bottles of BMW 20w50 SG/SH oil left. May not be enough, however. Thanks

Appendum: BMW doesn't carry the SG grade oil, but Spectro does makes SG rated 20w50 for Harleys. Guess I'll go to the Harley dealer. Thanks for the tip.

Mobil1 is synthetic oil, but Mobil1 V-Twin 20W50 carried the API SG rating the last time I checked. The Harley-Davidson Spectro 20W50 might be the Spectro Heavy Duty 20W50 that I have been using for the last 3 years. Heavy-Duty... Harley Davidson...? one still arrives at H-D.

Mobil1 is synthetic oil, but Mobil1 V-Twin 20W50 carried the API SG rating the last time I checked. The Harley-Davidson Spectro 20W50 might be the Spectro Heavy Duty 20W50 that I have been using for the last 3 years. Heavy-Duty... Harley Davidson...? one still arrives at H-D.

The Spectro is apparently the same. Came up with it through my research with your guidance. May be easier to go to Harley Davidson Dealer than ordering it through the mail in some cases. Thanks again.

Not sure my engine's seals would react well to synthetic after using non synthetic all these years

I went to the Harley dealership today. They showed me a bottle of Harley-Davidson 20w50. It has no API rating, so I don't know what it is. I didn't buy any.

Capital Cycle doesn't have the Spectro heavy Duty V twin SG rated oil.

I do have almost 3 quarts of the old BMW SG 20w30. I'm going to use that up first.

There is a website I found called www.spectroshop.com. It is an online Spectro store and they do have it! :))

Your 3 quarts should be enough for an oil change. The weather is turning favorable in North America and should still be favorable in the southern hemisphere, so put in some fresh oil and get that bike put back is service. Any shop that has a "Parts Unlimited" catalog should be able to order in a case of any oil you want that is currently available. I like to patronize local independent shops when I can, in hopes that they will be around. I'll guarantee that the Harley shop has "Parts Unlimited".

BTW, my name is James Strickland. I am the current Airmarshal for Illinois. I am not hard to find or contact. If you are a member of the ABC, and on this site, you should have an Airmarshal for your state, province, or country. Please consider developing a relationship with your Airmarshal. I am, of course, willing to offer guidance, but your Airmarshal should know how to put you in contact with local member/riders who can lend assistance and give guidance on most issues. In Illinois, we have a number of members who's expertise runs the gamut of topics like camping, electrical, tires, wheel bearings, sidecars, etc.

The reason we have this abundance of resources here in Illinois is because of the work of our previous Airmarhsal, the late Al Sloan. It is my job to maintain and grow the opportunities of Airhead owners in my state, region, and the world of Airheads as a whole... So, contact your Airmarshal and get yourself hooked up with riders who share our common values.

What you're looking for is an oil rated API SF or SG. After that (SH and higher) they took out the ZDDP "zinc package" because it killed catalytic converters. You want the zinc package because it protects the flat lifters and camshafts.

You have several options available to you...
► Several companies make SF/SG rated oils besides Spectro. These are typically labeled "racing oil" because they shouldn't be run in street vehicles or there will be damage to the catalytic converters. Valvoline VR-1 is one of those and is generally available at Advance Auto. This is the option I use because Valvoline also has several gear oils that work really well in the Airhead final drive.

► 15W40 diesel oil is also an option, especially in winter and other cooler climes. Since diesels don't have catalytic converters, their oils still have the zinc package. Whereas gasoline engine oils start with "S" under the API system, diesel oils start with "C". But there are 2-stroke and 4-stroke diesel engines. Simply be sure to buy a diesel oil rated for 4-stroke engines, typically marked "CJ-4" (the "4" denoting 4-stroke).

► You can also use 20W50 car oils rated API SM or SN, and then add the ZDDP as an additive. Look around at your LAPS and there will be several suppliers of zinc additive, typically costing more than the oil !! How much to add and the exact effectiveness are unknown, but it is an option.

If you simply want to crank the bike, ride 25 miles, and come back and change the oil again (an engine 'flush'), then I'd use some 15W40 WalMart 15W40 diesel oil (sometimes labeled as 'universal oil'). Drain that out and use it in your lawn mower this summer.

Hope this helps.

Thanks 8053 and Wobbly. I think I have a few options now. I remember using straight non detergent 30w in our 1959 Volkswagen. That's what VW recommended back then. Year round, here in the South. Volkswagen engines were very similar to BMW flat twins. They were flat fours, of course. I wonder how they are API rated, since I don't think they are used much anymore in federally regulated engines. Maybe used in lawn mowers. Think I'll look at a few cans. What do you think of straight weight and non detergent? Maybe non detergent is not necessary since we have oil filters now. I don't remember the VW having an oil filter.

I recall first reading of using multiweight detergent oils in air cooled engines, thinking, that may not be good for the engine.

Anyway,The more options, the better. This has been a good discussion.

► Straight Weights. Oil doesn't really lubricate until it gets warm, unless it's a multi-grade. The flat German engines don't really run that hot, but still to preserve your engine, you want it to last as long as possible. That means following the lead of all the major automotive manufacturer's latest advice. What are they all recommending ? Nothing but multi-grades. IMHO, you'd be foolish to use oil weights and types that haven't been recommended in the last 40 years.

► Non-detergent oils. In the beginning of the API rating system, there were going to be 5 grades for gasoline engines. SA (service extremely light) through SE (service extreme). Then they started "doctoring" the oil with additives and out came SF, then SG. Good oils started providing protection never heard of.

a) If you'll grab a can of non-detergent oil, you'll probably see that it's rated at SB or SC. The cost to rebuild your classic BMW is probably around $4000 to $5000. Why would you even consider taking away the best defense you have against engine wear ?

b) All of your higher rated oils are "high detergent". That detergent is needed to carry all the micro-particles of debris to the full-flow oil filter. I highly doubt you're planning on not using an oil filter. So then, why defeat the filtration system from the get-go.

c) You have obviously never seen the insides of an engine that spent it's entire life on non-detergent oil. It's a Stephen King version of Engine 101 for mechanics.

😉

You're right. I haven't seen the result of using non detergent straight weight oil, but that's what VW recommended. I don't think VW's had an oil filter at the time(1959). There may not have been multi-weight oil available either.

The engines, for some reason, lasted a long time as long as you kept the valves adjusted and oil changed.

And now, the rest of the story.

Wobbly writes:
" b) All of your higher rated oils are "high detergent". That detergent is needed to carry all the micro-particles of debris to the full-flow oil filter. I highly doubt you're planning on not using an oil filter. So then, why defeat the filtration system from the get-go."

For the reasons Wobbly correctly reports, detergent oil should never be used in a pre-1969 BMW motor. Detergent oil carries these micro-particles where they build up in the slingers of earlier motors. Apart from single cylinder BMW's, the pre-247 flat twins do not have oil pumps or filters. The single cylinder motors have oil pumps but not filters. Anyways, the emulsified "micro-particles" gather in the slingers and defeat the splash oiling. This effect is the same for the earlier singles and twins. That, in a nutshell, is the difference between a 40,000 mile BMW motorcycle motor, and a Type 247 motor capable of running hundreds of thousands of miles. Everyone hates oil threads in the general sense, but this one might be informative for our general membership. With regard to air-cooled VW motors, use only non-detergent motor oil. Many thanks to Wobbly for the insight.

I'm not sure that, generally, people are aware of what's happening to oils and additives and such. I just looked at my gallon jug of Mobile Delvac. It's rated SM, SL for gasoline engines now. They must be putting catalytic converters on deisels now. Now I'm worried about my truck. Great discussion. Thanks