Lubing Steering Head Bearings

Cleaning and lubrication of the steering head bearings should be done at a scheduled mileage/time but most let it go until the steering has a ‘notch’ felt in the straight ahead position. This procedure was developed specifically for a 1983/1984 R100RT, but is similar for all Airheads. I advise you to read this procedure through before beginning. Cleaning and regreasing MAY WELL eliminate “notchy-ness” that SEEMS to indicate need for new bearings and outer races. It is best, but not mandatory, to do this procedure after installing new balanced tires, as road crown and tire squaring wear, and balance, might have an adverse effect on trying to make final on-the-road adjustments. This is not hardly just for the front tire….most riders do not know that a squared-off REAR tire is THE most common cause of wobble and weaving from the tires. The author has usually, but not always, done this procedure to his own bikes after installation of a new front tire, but when the wheel is off the motorcycle. If your REAR tire is not squared-off considerably, it will be OK for the final procedure, which are riding tests to get the preload adjustment ‘just right’.  It is possible to do this procedure with the front wheel in place, usually that means having the front wheel hanging over the edge of a curb, or the centerstand is in use and on a piece of wood, so the front end can be dropped a couple of inches.

Cleaning and lubrication of steering bearings is not at all difficult, but if a bearing is found truly bad, replacing them is more labor intensive, as part of any fairing must be removed, and possibly brake piping, cables, etc. Contrary to some popular belief, our BMW steering head bearings of the tapered ‘Timken’ style may well last over 200,000 miles. If the bearings/races/shells are in good condition and properly greased and adjusted, the steering will be light, smooth, without any straight ahead notch. You likely will not find out if the bearings are really bad, that is, in need of replacement, UNTIL you first try cleaning and greasing.  In a SHOP situation, the bearings are not cleaned and lubricated and then adjusted to see if any notch is gone. In a SHOP situation, labor is too costly for that.  A shop can not take the time to clean and regrease, and then find out that the bearings really are bad, so a shop always replaces a notchy bearing.  YOU, on the other hand, don’t need to do that…..and will often save a LOT of money, and a considerable amount of labor saving is possible.

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Throwout Bearing Maintenance

…cleaning, inspecting, and servicing the throwout assembly on ’74 to ’84 airheads every 10K. Would someone be willing to describe this process in enough detail so that I would have half a chance of performing this myself successfully?

Sure… The reason I suggest doing this, is due to the nature of the layout of the rollers in the bearing. Before the ’74’s (/5 and earlier), BMW used a ball bearing throw-out assembly. They went back to this after 1984. If you referrence a price list, you will see that the ’74 to’84 roller set up is a LOT cheaper. The rollors are laid out radially in a circle.This insure that as the rollers attempt to roll, one end will go faster than the other and will scrape on the two “thrust pieces” on each side.

The bearings do fail (usually indicated by a sudden need to take up slack in the clutch cable). Now, the failed bearing, the two thrust pieces and the clutch thrust rod are turning as a unit. The clutch end of the thrust rod can bore into the forward pressure plate of the clutch assembly. Surprisingly, the bike can still be operated while this is going on, with the rider noting strange shifting and odd clutch noises. This happens often enough that I carry a spare set up as insurance for my wife’s ’78 R100/7, when we tour. (I have, of course, the vastly superior /5)

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Wheel Bearings

These procedures may seem complicated at first, but in reality it takes only minutes, once you have done it previously.  MUCH of the information will not, perhaps, apply to YOUR motorcycle, but it all does need to be read, and understood.

BMW Airhead motorcycles are relatively tolerant to abuse and poor maintenance. Our human bodies are not tolerant to being dumped on the road at speed from a motorcycle. Of all the items that are safety related, the mechanically most important are the condition of the wheels, tires (tubes if any), brakes, wheel bearings.  For non-mechanical, well, of sorts, one could add the importance of the rider’s clothing, and, in particular, the rider’s condition and competence/skill.  

The remainder of this article is only available for Airheads Beemer Club members. Please login or purchase a membership here to join the Airheads Beemer Club, after which you will enjoy access this article and all members only content of the ABC web site.

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Throwout Bearing Maintenance

Sure… The reason I suggest doing this, is due to the nature of the layout of the rollers in the bearing. Before the ’74’s (/5 and earlier), BMW used a ball bearing throw-out assembly. They went back to this after 1984. If you referrence a price list, you will see that the ’74 to’84 roller set up is a LOT cheaper. The rollors are laid out radially in a circle.This insure that as the rollers attempt to roll, one end will go faster than the other and will scrape on the two “thrust pieces” on each side.

The remainder of this article is only available for Airheads Beemer Club members. Please login or purchase a membership here to join the Airheads Beemer Club, after which you will enjoy access this article and all members only content of the ABC web site.

Continue readingMore Tag
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