The turn signals on my 1992 R100GSPD intermittently started having an issue on my last trip. Â The turn signals flash rapidly (same when left or right selected) and after a few seconds the turn signals usually slow down to a normal pace. Front and rear turn signal lights always working regardless of flashing speed. Â Usually, but not every time, the dash turn signal indicator light will not illuminate until the turn signals flashing rate slows to normal. Â This problem seems to happen more when the left signal is selected but also sometimes happens with the right signal selected. Â Any idea on where I should start troubleshooting?
Ideas...
> There are 2 types of flasher modules: Bimetal (resistance operated) [~$4] and Timing circuit (with a small circuit board and timing chip) [~$25].
Because they operate solely by electrical resistance heating a bimetal film, these fail all the time. Failure can be based on hours of use, environmental conditions (influx of water), and they ONLY WORK PROPERLY with the correct internal resistance turn signal bulbs. Did you change your TS bulbs recently ? Are your TS bulbs sockets rusty (which would change the resistance) ?Â
The circuit board type are generally more reliable and are the only type flasher you can use with LED turn signal bulbs. But still, these can and will fail in strange ways.Â
Check your flasher unit (aka "flasher relay").
> On the surface, this issue sounds to me like there is added resistance in the line going to and from the handlebar switch. (Which is why the problem is equally present on both Left and Right indicators.) Then, when the circuit is activated a surge of electrical power passes through the problematic connector and jolts the circuit into reality. The fix then is to sit down and apply an anti-oxidation, corrosion-fighting compound to EVERY single connector in the TS circuit. Such a compound is No-Ox-Id by Sanchem, available on Amazon.
On a 1992 model this is easily done because you don't have a mass of independent connectors, but instead one large multi-pin connector which is located under the fuel tank, at the front of the right side. Unplug this connector, apply the No-Ox to an ear swab (aka "Q-tip"), and use the swab to thoroughly apply a THIN coat to ALL the male prongs within the connector. You might also dab a small amount on each of the TS pod connectors, and the bulb sockets inside the yellow TS pods.Â
Hope this helps.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Have you changed anything in your ignition system recently? It sounds like electrical noise is creating the issues you describe. I'd start by checking your spark plugs and plug wires and caps to make sure they're in good working order and that you have the right resistors in place (i.e. 5k ohm spark plug caps).
Have you changed anything in your ignition system recently? It sounds like electrical noise is creating the issues you describe. I'd start by checking your spark plugs and plug wires and caps to make sure they're in good working order and that you have the right resistors in place (i.e. 5k ohm spark plug caps).
Such a change could have been introduced by simply changing spark plugs. 99% of all spark plugs are used in cars, which since (about) year 2000 have all used resistor style spark plugs. Manufacturers have responded by stopping production of all non-resistor plugs, such as those used by our beloved Airheads. Non-resistor plugs are getting to be very hard to find.Â
The effect on your electrical system of adding newer resistor type spark plugs while still employing the OEM 5K Ohm resistor plug caps is unknown.Â
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Have you changed anything in your ignition system recently? It sounds like electrical noise is creating the issues you describe. I'd start by checking your spark plugs and plug wires and caps to make sure they're in good working order and that you have the right resistors in place (i.e. 5k ohm spark plug caps).
Such a change could have been introduced by simply changing spark plugs. 99% of all spark plugs are used in cars, which since (about) year 2000 have all used resistor style spark plugs. Manufacturers have responded by stopping production of all non-resistor plugs, such as those used by our beloved Airheads. Non-resistor plugs are getting to be very hard to find.Â
The effect on your electrical system of adding newer resistor type spark plugs while still employing the OEM 5K Ohm resistor plug caps is unknown.Â
You can still buy BP6ES plugs from EME, and perhaps other vendors. The resistor-style version (BPR6ES) is more readily available.
Changing to resistor style plugs while using the stock 5k-ohm caps is not going to cause the electrical interference that I am referring to.
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