I have two questions.
1. Is there a weatherproof USB port that cn be mounted in the spare slot of the fairing?
2. Do I need to change out the diode board when upgrading to a higher wattage alternator? Or will the Thunderchild unit a previous owner installed be sufficient? All the upgrade kits I’ve seen include a new diode board, but if I can eliminate that expense and just purchase the alternator, I’d be happy.
Thanks in advance for any help.
I don’t know how to edit my post. But what I meant is, not a fairing mount USB outlet, but rather in the Pad by the handlebars, as shown in the photo, I think. What can I say, I’m an idiot.
@ The stock rectangular holes (as shown in your photo) was intended for the Bosch (brand) rocker switch. There are 2 switch positions available, one for heated grips and one for external (after market) driving lamps.
I'm not sure what you'd permanently wire into your Airhead that would require a permanent USB port, unless you're talking 5V device charging. In that case I'd recommend an in-line weatherproof (cigarette lighter sized) 12V port. Like This (I suggest an "in-line" port so that when unused, it would hang pointed down and not be able to fill with water.) These are easily wired in from the "multicolor circuit board" inside the headlamp shell. Be sure to add a separate 1A fuse for this device. Like This (Wire the whole thing with 16AWG wire and use heat shrink tubing over all exposed solder joints to exclude water.)
Into this you could plug a standard phone charger with cord. Like This A common 2 ft charger cord can reach into your tank bag, which is where you'd want to keep your phone. Most modern tank bags now come with a weatherproof wire entrance.
@ If you will simply install new alternator brushes and LED light bulbs into your headlamp and tail lamp, this will reduce your overall electrical power needs by at least 2.5A (35 Watts). And you'll have a brighter and safer headlamp to boot !! With the saved 35W you can then power other devices. Unless you're wanting to run a fully heated riding suit, there is simply no need for most riders to install "high output" alternators.
I highly suggest you read the power consumption labels on every device you want to constantly power on your bike, and add them all up. If the total comes out to less than the stock alternator output, then you don't need a new alternator. DO NOT add in the power for the horn, turn signals and brake lamp.... those items are not ON as you go down the road.
IMHO, "high output" alternators are a hold-over from the 1970's when every accessory was high-wattage. People were running 80W headlamp bulbs, full-size car radio/tape players, CB radios, and 200W incandescent driving lamps. You probably don't have ANY of those accessories. In approximately 95% of the cases today high-output alternators are simply no longer needed. Save your money !!
Hope this helps.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Thanks, Richard. I want the USB outlet up top for my phone, and a TomTom gps. While awaiting replies, another member sent me the link for a weather-resistant/protected, dual-port outlet, having an inline fuse , pulling power directly from the battery. It can mount on the handlebar. Was hoping for a solution that would just snap right into the spare hole. I do not fancy having any long dangling cords or adapters from the DIN outlet.
I’m going to upgrade the alternator for some future auxiliary driving lights, and I don’t know what else beyond that. But I guarantee it won’t be for a heated vest or suit : I’m a wuss, so, too cold I don’t ride.
I would suggest adding a hard switch or relay to that USB outlet. Very few (if any) 12v to 5v USB converters fully turn themselves off... They just keep on converting that voltage regardless if there's a device using the 5v or not. It's small, but is larger than a digital clock, and will run your battery down.
You might be able to mount/hang the USB port device under that shroud, then get a switch that would fit one of the covers to turn on/off the converter. Or drill a small hole in the cover and add a simple toggle switch.
@ I also see issues with direct-battery-connected accessories.
1. First of all... everything that's at the battery (in a messy form) is also inside the headlamp shell on the multi-colored circuit board, where it is waiting for your accessories with neat and empty spade connectors. RED is always-ON direct 12V battery power. GREEN is full 12V power controlled by the ignition switch. BROWN is the necessary Return (aka "ground"). So why would you want unmarked wires that need re-connection every time the battery is removed ? And why add 8 feet of wire to your bike when you could very easily add 10 inches ?
2. And Steven is correct about the "always ON" nature of direct battery connections. It isn't much, but the 12V-to-5V converter inside the USB socket is constantly consuming power. On a cold night where battery voltage dips along with the air temp, that constant draw could leave an older battery in poor condition to crank the bike in the morning. (This has happened to me in Blowing Rock, NC.) And believe me, even if you know how to roll-start a motorcycle, anyone 45 years or older is NEVER going to roll off an R100 dressed in cold weather riding gear !!
@ At night, you're going to take your phone with you into the motel room, where it can be charged by a wall outlet. That realistically only leaves the GPS system which is fully transistorized and probably only consumes (roughly) 12W. Due to cost, almost all modern driving lamps (I cannot find ANY incandescent during lamps for sale) are LED and consume around 10W each. So 2 driving lights and a TomTom bring you up to 32W. You'll definitely have that electrical power to spare by simply fitting an LED headlamp bulb.
You can most easily bolster your stock electrical system by doing these 3 things...
- Using LED headlamp and tail lamp bulbs
- Replacing the 50 year old mechanical voltage regulator with a modem solid state version
- Replacing the alternator brushes (which have probably been in place 30 years)
And the truth is that you'll want to do all 3 of these when fitting a new alternator anyway ! The total cost of these will be under $50. And all 3 are improving your electrical system reliability. Whereas, adding a whole new alternator will not be a proven reliability improvement until you have ridden with it for at least 2 seasons. There will most probably be several "bugs" to work out. One of which may leave you using that cell phone to call for a trailer.
Regards
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Thanks. Here’s a link to the product recommended to me, which, along with an in-line fuse, also has an on/off switch. I think I’d want t a shorter cord between the short fixed half right off the battery, and the device itself , if I can find one.
https://www.amazon.com/clp/B09HH7N [Mods: Not a working link]
I don’t really fancy opening my headlight bucket very often. I had seen in an article , or thread, SOMEWHERE, a reference to either a kit, or perhaps just an individual that had relocated the fuse panel to one of the pockets in the fairing. Now THAT, interests me. On a previous maxi scooter, I had a small auxiliary fuse panel, from Eastern Beaver, I believe, that had 8 circuits, half were constant hot, keyed hot. I like that set-up, and that may be what I eventually do after upgrading the alternator.
Previous owner had upgraded the voltage regulator.
I don’t really fancy opening my headlight bucket very often. I had seen in an article , or thread, SOMEWHERE, a reference to either a kit, or perhaps just an individual that had relocated the fuse panel to one of the pockets in the fairing. Now THAT, interests me. On a previous maxi scooter, I had a small auxiliary fuse panel, from Eastern Beaver, I believe, that had 8 circuits, half were constant hot, keyed hot. I like that set-up, and that may be what I eventually do after upgrading the alternator.
Relocation of the fuses was something done in the 1970's because you had to. The pointy end German fuses are totally unreliable as far as making a solid electrical connection. My proof of this is that those things haven't been used (even in German cars) since the 1980's. The fuse you want is the modern "flat pack fuse" like you'll find in your car. Not only is it a better connection, but they are easier to find while traveling.
Secondly, unless you already do a lot of wiring and have easy access to soldering irons, lots of crimps, heat shrink tubing, and heat guns... then this "fuse extension project" is going to become the most common failure point on your bike. I can say that after 12 years as a pro motorcycle mechanic and having fixed or replaced hundreds of DIY electrical projects. Lots of people, even competent electricians, completely forget that wiring on a motorcycle is completely exposed to WEATHER and vibration. These 2 devils have a way of destroying connections like no other.
If you want reliable fuses, then replace the cone point stock fuses with some flat pack fuses, but leave the new fuse holders INSIDE the headlamp, as seen here...
Hope this helps.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Richard, if I might ask - what is the LED replacement headlight, and taillight you’d recommend? Would they be compatible if I later decided to use headlight or taillight modulators? Thanks.
@ 1. LED headlamp bulbs are too numerous and forever changing to give an exact part number. What you are looking for is an "H4 LED" of about 2500 lumens in the 6000K (light color) range with the special triangular post construction. These will typically be in the 25W power consumption range, and may or may not have a cooling fan in their base. Yes they fit into an R100 headlamp shell.
A good many (probably 90%) of these being offered are for use in CARS and use a flat, 2-sided circuit board construction. These can be immediately dis-qualified from your search because of the generally poor light pattern. Stick with it and look for one with the multi-sided protrusion. This will give you a much better light pattern on the road. (THIS ONE on Amazon seems to look right.)
2. When you fit an LED bulb to your Airhead, you'll want to split the glass from the reflector and remove the dark grey sub-reflector that is attached with 3 small legs. It simply snaps in and out. You can always refit it later if you like.
@ LED tail lamp bulbs are stock automotive bulbs. You can walk into your local Auto Zone or O'Reily's and buy them this afternoon. The catch here is that you only want to buy bulbs in the RED color range. The reason incandescent bulbs appear dim is that they are making white light, which is composed of 7 colors. Six of those colors get filtered out by the tail lamp lens. But, you can buy LED bulbs that only make RED light, and 100% of that light is seen by the motorist behind you. IOW, red LED bulbs will appear brighter and clearer to everyone behind you. Also obvious, you want to buy a brighter brake lamp bulb so it can be seen over the tail lamp illumination.
@ Modulators don't care, they are merely switching the power ON/OFF. All LED bulbs work fine with modulators.
@ DON'T bother buying yellow LED bulbs for the turn signals. The stock R100 turn signal flasher rate is based on the resistance of the stock incandescent flasher pod bulbs. LED bulbs won't flash in the stock R100.
Hope this helps
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Thanks , I appreciate it.
I am not having any luck so far locating that 3-post LED array bulb. Have you got the link to that that particular headlight? Does it meet the specifications you listed for lumens/color spectrum? Appreciate the good advice.
Steve
My bad. I should have said "multi-sided" post. A square post with 4-sides may be just as good or better as 3-sides. The whole idea is to get full reflector illumination. Any unlit portions of the reflector show up as dark areas on the night time road. Of course, if you don't ride at night, then that may be a moot point. Just ride on "Hi Beam" 24/7 and you're good.
The bulb I gave a link to on Amazon does not give the Wattage. Looking at some of the others, I see bulbs going up to 90W !! How an LED can use more electrical power than a halogen bulb is beyond me. So it's clear, there are some really JUNK bulbs being offered for the unwary buyer.
Obviously a lot has changed in the 7 years since I last purchased an LED HL bulb. But some exertion on your part is also necessary. So you've read all the specs for all the bulbs on Amazon ? You've gone to all the local motorcycle and car parts places and looked at their bulbs ? You've looked at all the LED bulbs on eBay ?
Then all you can do is look at the example light patterns in the ads that say "Motorcycle LED bulb". If the ad doesn't show a night time light pattern, then skip it. You're still looking for 6000K, 2500 lumen, 25-30W power consumption with an excellent light pattern.
Like I said before, part numbers and product offerings are constantly changing in the LED bulb market. Keep looking.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
@wobbly Most bulbs I’ve looked at on eBay do not indicate the number of LED’s, and many do not tell the color rendering, wattage or lumens. I thought if you had the link you might offer it up. I am in an extremely rural area of the Sierra foothills, near Yosemite, so options here are few. ”Civilization”, where I might find a few resources is at least 2 hours away. But I will proceed. Thanks.
I am mainly searching on Amazon, not eBay.
A good many (probably 90%) of these being offered are for use in CARS and use a flat, 2-sided circuit board construction. These can be immediately dis-qualified from your search because of the generally poor light pattern. Stick with it and look for one with the multi-sided protrusion. This will give you a much better light pattern on the road. (THIS ONE on Amazon seems to look right.)
Here's the shareable URL Richard had shared previously...
@wobbly Most bulbs I’ve looked at on eBay do not indicate the number of LED’s...
Number of LEDs is not important. Do you count the filament coils on your halogen bulbs ?
I am mainly searching on Amazon, not eBay.
Well, I guess you'll need to expand your search. Have you tried "Super Bright LEDs", "Revzilla" or any of the other 100 motorcycle accessory web sights ? Have you searched here ?
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
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