Darcy,

Your issues could be one or both of your problems. 

First check the speedo cable from the transmission to the underneath of speedo. Make sure it's not broken and is completely inserted into both the trans and speedo. Disconnect cable on both ends, manually spin the inner square cable to make sure it spins on the other end. The bolt that holds the cable into the trans secures the ground cable from battery and has a hole through it to vent the tranny.  If the cable, the square drive cable inside the outer protective sheath is good, then your problem maybe internal of the speedo unit. There are a few good businesses, they advertise in "Airmail", who can repair the odometer/ tripometer. 

If you remove the cable from the tranny, check the rubber boot that covers the end of cable. Replace it if cracked or torn. This is an avenue for water to get into the transmission. A good silicone sealant will also help prevent water from getting in. 

This sounds like a good tech day project 

Good luck

Rick. #12173

Thanks for the detailed response! I’ll verify the physical connections first. The speedo and tach are working correctly so I’m leaning towards an issue internal to the instrument cluster.

I hope to attend a tech day event soon.

There are instructions online about how to fix it if it's internal to the speedo. However, I sent mine to Overseas Speedometer in Austin to get it fixed. I know there are other recommended shops as well. Overseas also re-calibrated the speedometer post repair and it is now spot on. 

• On the "drive cable" check it's not enough to simply spin one end and see what happens at the other. The 2 broken ends can mesh and SEEM TO perform, but fail when torque is required to actually power the odometer. I suggest you withdraw the inner cable completely (it only pulls free from one end), and give it a visual check. 

If it's complete and unbroken, then it's a great time to lube the drive cable outer housing. I prefer m/c chain lube which is waterproof and stays in place a LONG time... if nothing else then 5 drops of motor oil installed from the upper end before re-installing the inner cable.

• The classic odometer issue is described by Snowbum in his files. The gray pot metal gear starts to spin freely on the steel shaft. Use an ear swab and alcohol to thoroughly clean the side of the gear and shaft. Scuff both parts to increase adhesion. Clean those parts a second time. Apply a filler epoxy (such as JB Weld) to the side of the gear and around the shaft. [A "filler epoxy" will allow the user to form the epoxy (like "modeling clay") into the appropriate shape and location, without it running off into places that would ruin the instrument.]

The gear-to-shaft junction may have failed due to internal friction requiring too much power to operate the instrument. Take this time to lubricate all the instrument pivot points, shafts and gears with a silicone-based, all-temperature lubricant (such as Super Lube #21030).

It is not a terribly hard job to remove the instrument cluster from the bike then disassemble it to get to the gear Richard mentions.  As stated there are instructions on the web regarding this.

I will add a bit of advice, treat the small screws holding the cluster together and the speedometer/odometer in place gently when reassembling them.  It doesn't take much torque to pull the insets the screws mount into to break away from the housing.  Also, do not disassemble the speedometer, ie, don't remove the needle for any reason unless you can figure a way to rewind the hairspring that is needed for calibration and working.   I have had work done by overseas with good results in. all honesty unless you like working with small parts this may be the way to go.  Good luck with what ever you do. St,

Thanks everyone for the information. I'll be working on this over the next couple of days using your suggestions.

I went for a short ride today and the odometer was working on the way out but not on the way back. I did adjust the handlebars, grips and mirrors last night so maybe I jostled the connections enough to get it to work briefly. My plan is to check the cable and if that appears okay, I'll take a look inside the instrument cluster. I do agree that if that's where the problem lies, I'm probably just going to reach out to one of the companies that specialize in this.

Again, many thanks.

Update…As suggested, I took the cable out and didn’t see any issues but when I reinstalled it, I found the plastic piece it slides into was rough and I couldn’t get the cable to seat all the way in (I was able to rock the back tire to get the square cable lined up). A little sanding and removing of some of the plastic to smoothen out and allow the piece to seat correctly has fixed the odometer issue. Seems to work fine now.

I purchased a KatDash recently and will install it to make the lights more effective.

What about if the ODO reset button stops working? The speedo and tach still work fine just the odo.