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My R100 shuts off at idle or low speed. Will re start but, it’s weird.

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Brian Mansky
(@10019)
Posts: 3
New Member
Topic starter
 

This started last fall, and just again a couple of weeks ago. Engines warms up fine, runs great then at a stop it just shuts off. To restart I have to cycle the kill switch both up and down. Sometimes there is a back fire fart, sometimes an full out BANG and sometimes nothing. Then the bike starts fine and you ride away. Remain at stop and it shuts off again most times. I had previous starting problems resolved with a new starter relay and I replaced the starter / kill switch assembly. Then, the other day, it shut off while I was moving at about 40 Km/hr. Just done that once so far. Neutral light works just fine. Engine restarts first touch of the button. It’s a 1983 R100RT. Thunderchild diode board, Omega bean can replacement. Stored in a completely climate controlled garage, yes, the air is on these days, it stayed dry.

 
Posted : 08/18/2018 16:00
Richard W
(@wobbly)
Posts: 2545
Member
 

What type electronic ignition have you got ? Some are very sensitive to low voltage conditions or intermittent connections. The issue varies by brand.

What type starter relay did you have, was it the 1x1x1 mini-cube place on the LH of the frame, under the fuel tank ?

It's also very common for the Positive battery cable to give out. They'll wick battery acid under the full length of the cable's jacket, until it comes out at the starter solenoid. That makes for a very bad situation with charging and ignition.

Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.

 
Posted : 08/19/2018 20:12
Brian Mansky
(@10019)
Posts: 3
New Member
Topic starter
 

The bean can is by Alpha, the starter relay is the little square one under the tank, new 2 weeks ago, from EME. The battery cable is newer. The battery is a sealed, run it upside down AGM type. Had cleaned the connections this spring. The electronic ignition under the tank is newer fron EME. It does need a heatsink paste service. At speed, the voltage is very strong, better than new. If I idle it at 2000, no shut down occurs.

 
Posted : 08/19/2018 21:26
Richard W
(@wobbly)
Posts: 2545
Member
 

It still sounds like a low voltage condition to me. Have you measured the battery voltage (on the battery posts, not the cable ends) at different RPM ranges, including idle ?

Just becasue I wonder about these things, why did you replace the starter relay ? Your brake master cyl is up on the handlebars, and not under the tank, correct ? And did you happen to pop the cap off the old relay ?

Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.

 
Posted : 08/20/2018 17:25
Brian Mansky
(@10019)
Posts: 3
New Member
Topic starter
 

I replaced the relay as the original one was not working well. Sometimes had to hit the starter button 40 or 50 times for it to work. The cap on the old one was sort of sealed with silicone. I will test the voltage across the battery at idle, but not now. Packing up the othe bike for an extended trip. It will have to wait till I get back next month. Thanks for the guidance.

 
Posted : 08/20/2018 22:58

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