1982 R100RS Oil Change problem
Removed oil filter, however the metal cap at far end of filter separated and remains stuck on the metal tube in center of oil filter cavity. Fashioned a hook out of mechanic wire to get behind this piece, but unable to pull the metal filter piece out.
Can that metal tube in middle that filter fits over be removed as it appears to have slotted end? If so how to reinstall? Looks like it could be tricky as it is so far in that oil filter cavity.
You can try to remove that tube, but I believe the factory put it in there with thread locker, and trying to get enough heat into the aluminum engine block to break it loose will be a challenge. And if you try to do it without, there's a very good chance of buggering up the end of the tube. You might want to check with a BMW dealer to see if they'll sell you one of those tubes, just in case it is damaged by your efforts.
Before you go in that direction, try a long pick with a right angle end from a reputable source like Mac, Proto, or Snap-On. The pointed end will be easier to get behind the disc, and it'll be strong enough to pull on with a pair of ViseGrips if needs be. Here's a link to one sold by Harbor Freight so you know what to look for, but I'm not sure I'd trust one from them to get the job done.
You might want to have someone steady the bike for you when doing this, or strap it down, or even lay it down on the left valve cover (use some cardboard or plywood under the valve cover if you decide to do this).
Good luck, and let us know how it works out, OK?
thanks for the input.....magnetic on telescoping rod finally worked....seems that the hook method cocked the piece enough to keep it from sliding out....did use the hook to remove the the left behind seal.....
Yes, the central metal tube can be removed. It requires a special tool in order not to damage the tube. It uses a standard RH thread. If the tube is safely removed, then it can be reinstalled back into the engine after you remove the offending oil filter end cap.
In my restoration work have removed 3 of these tubes, and can tell you that some are installed with a reasonable torque, while others you'll swear the whole motorcycle is going to do a back-flip before the tube turns loose. There's simply no way to know before you try.
So you must have a tool that applies a 100% engagement with zero angular component. That means any driver bit MUST have completely flat, parallel sides. Common home-style wedge screwdriver blades will only "cam out" and bugger up the end of the shaft so badly that the tube can never be extracted.
Hope this helps.
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