Clutch slippage

I went out today for the longest ride I've done on my R100 RS for about 400 km's. It was all highway running and on the way back at speed I noticed a little bit of clutch slippage. Just riding around low speed in town it's not noticeable as I'm not reving hard enough to make it slip. Clutch plates are a little steep so I'd rather not have to throw down right now.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Mike, I regret to inform you that it is time to "pay the piper". If you know anyone who keeps derelict bikes for parts donors, you could go that route. A better friction disc and spring diaphragm might buy you some mileage.
former Airmarshal, IL.
First make sure that your actuation lever on the rear of the gearbox has some "free play". There MUST be an air gap on that lever, or the clutch cable is (in effect) trying to always disengage the clutch, just as if you were pulling in the clutch lever at the grip. ALL control cables MUST have a slight air gap to keep them from being under full-time tension.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Hello Mike. Clutch slippage typically shows itself when rolling on the power in top gear - like pulling out to pass and nailing it, in top gear. Typically doesn’t slip in lower gears - at least at the onset of the problem. Want to be sure that is what you are experiencing.
As far as clutch adjustment - if you go to Tom Cutter’s “Rubber Chicken Racing Garage” website, under “Information”, under “Downloads” you will find a procedure for Airhead clutch cable replacement and adjustment. The article is a good guide.

That is exactly what was happening, power on in top gear on the highway. I will check out Tom's website and go have a look. It's been awhile since I've checked the actuation lever. I will go through it all.
Who are the best used parts dealers to look for some clutch parts and maybe a wiring harness for the clocks on the dash?
Thanks for the insight.
The two names I've heard most frequently on all US forums are EuroMotor Electrics in CO and Max BMW in the eastern sector. Both of which ship anywhere.
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/

I know them both for new parts. I tend to use Bob's for that but I'm looking for used parts. I think Beemer Boneyard is oilseeds on and not airheads so much.
Joshua Buck. Parts Haus. https://local.yahoo.com/info-20582234-parts-haus-long-beach/
former Airmarshal, IL.
If you end up disassembling to install new clutch parts... a lot of knowledgeable people contend that the pressure plate assembly is balanced as an assembly, not by the individual parts. So you might want to mark the positions of the multiple parts (relative to the flywheel) BEFORE disassembly.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
My last clutch for my ‘78 R100, instead of buying new, I had it refurbished at Southland Clutch in National City (San Diego) CA. They do excellent work, the clutch has been great, and saved some $. Not sure how it would work out from Newfoundland, but worth checking. I did buy a new HD spring to go with it. Southland advertises in the Airmail.

Thank you
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